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I'm working on a pair of longies from a recycled wool sweater - just reusing the sleeves as legs and picking up live stitches to make the body. They have a 16.5 inch inseam, and about 20 inch circumference at the hips right now. About what size rise should I shoot for? Waist circumference? I was figuring I'd probably need to decrease a bit before I start a ribbed waistband, but I don't know yet when that should be.