Cable placement help

[Marlet]

I frogged the %#^&%#$& Cp waistband picky pants longies the other and finally re-cast on and have my waistband done I'd like to do cables on the legs (down the sides) My friend is doing the same and she figured out cable placement but as I was doing my prep row it seemed off.

I have 76 stitches with my second marker after stitch 34 (so the beginning of the round is 42 stitches later) She has it figured out as:

k14, p2, 8 stitch cable, p2, k26, p2, 8 stitch cable, p2, k12

The first time around I did it without my hip marker in place. It didn't seem like it was fall on the center side of my leg though so I took it out. I haven't tried again. I figured I would try here first.

[Marlet]

Anyone? I hate asking math based questions on here I get views but rarely any replies

[Marlet]

[fallriverfox]

I'd offer advice, but I've never made picky pants and I can't picture what you're talking about. I guess I'm just posting so you won't feel lonely.

[Marlet]

Awww thanks


Have you had a chance to start spinning that fiber yet? You're the only other person I know who has some (well not true but you're the only person I can "contact" ) so I'm curious what you think about it. I like it ok. I have some listed on etsy that I dyed so I'm just curious if it's worth it.

[flapjack]

Look, you've got the markers in place already. Just place the markers as you would for the short row option and then cable the four stitches before and four stitches after the marker. I would never dream of not doing short rows (and if so, I'd do the first set on the row after a cable) but I know your girls have small bums. That way there's no maths needed. Really, you're thinking too much.

[Marlet]

Yes I know. I'm just tired of these stupid things not working. They aren't for me so I'd like them to behave already.

[SophieAnn]

One thing to keep in mind: pants usually have a bigger back than front - i.e. if you are sewing pants, the front pieces are narrower than the back pieces... because of the need for um, extra space there.

So, if you wanted the cables to run straight down the sides of the pants, you may actually want to place them slightly more forwards than dead-centre... if that makes any sense.

I've never worked that pattern though. If your hip marker is slightly forward, then you could simply center your cable around the hip marker.

Be aware though - the reading I've done on cables says that when adding a cable to a pattern, add 1-2 stitches for every 4 stitches of cables. Adding the cable will result in slightly smaller pants otherwise. If they're a baggy fit to start with (which I think they are), don't worry about it though.

P.S. The math does seem wrong to me too. If you wanted it dead center, then it should be symmetrical, so instead of:

K14 P2 Cable8 P2 K26 P2 Cable8 P2 K12

I would think it should be:

K13 P2 Cable8 P2 K26 P2 Cable8 P2 K13

[Marlet]

Good to know! I wondered how much I should be adding in stitch wise. I went for a non-cable design anyhow.

[flapjack]

Tease

[Marlet]

I started them as cabled longies and then had a few mess ups and had to frog back anyway. I figured I would do something else since I was at the beginning anyhow. These are much better than they would be as cabled ones. Pics later...I'm almost done.

[flapjack]

:

I'm betting on a black waistband and ruffles here

[Marlet]

: I wish...I need some ruffles. These are for a little boy so there is no ruffle. Le sigh.

[flapjack]

It's amazing how much faster boys longies knit when you've got no ruffles or picot edges to get in the way.

[Marlet]

I know it! I was telling a friend the other day they just seem to fly. I mean there are only so many "boy" options...especially on the cuffs.