Anyone ever do this pattern?

[Therese's Mommy]

I am completing an XL robe from the pattern Kwik Sew 3329. I don't know what I am doing wrong, but I just can't get the sleeves right. Looking at the pattern pieces I don't see how the sleeves are going to fit. I have my pattern pieces cut out and have gotten to the point of putting the sleeves in. They look to me like there needs to be some easing or something, but the pattern doesn't call for it. My sleeves just seem way too big, but when I compared to the pattern they don't seem to be too far off. The top of the sleeve curves one way and the armhole curves the other way. Can anyone give me some help?? I am a pretty novice sewer so please be patient with me

Thanks!

Beth

[sewchris2642]

I haven't done that pattern but I have sewn kimono type robes before (as well as real kimonos). The sleeve looks like it has a gentle, flat s curve in it. It curves one way at the underarm seam and the other way at the shoulder notch. The armhole on the robe will only have one curve in it--more curved at the side seam and almost straight at the shoulder. The sleeves should be sewn in after the shoulders and the neck band are sewn but before the side seam. The side seam and the sleeve seam should be sewn as one seam after the sleeves are sewn in. Match the shoulder notch on the sleeve to the shoulder seam on the robe, pin. Do the same on any other notches (if there are notches for the front and back, the back notch will be double (wider) and the front notch will be a single notch). The sleeve will be about 1" longer than the robe. That allows for ease which is needed for arm movement and comfort in wearing. Sewing a gathering/easing line isn't necessary because the ease is small. But you can do one if you want. When you sew, sew with the sleeve on the bottom and the machine will ease in the excess for you. Also the cut edge of the sleeve is bigger than the seam line so the seam allowance will ripple a little.

Another thought. Are you sure that you cut both the robe and the sleeve the same size? It's a multi sized pattern and an easy mistake to make.

[Therese's Mommy]

Wow! Thanks so much for your reply. It was exactly what I needed. I got the sleeves in on my first try with your instruction!! The big key was sewing with the sleeve on the bottom. I cannot thank you enough!

Beth

[sewchris2642]

You're welcome. Remember that when you are sewing, you are taking a 2 dimensional fabric and making it fit a 3 dimensional body. That's the reason behind the shapes of the 2 edges. The underarm of your body is a curve. Over the shoulder is a straight line. But on the arm, over the shoulder is a curve because of the shoulder joint. So the armhole on the robe is only curved at the side seam. But the sleeve has two curves on that seam.