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Raising a puppy... questions - Page 2

post #21 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by HealingBeam View Post
Shouldn't he get by now that he's not allowed jumping on children, biting them, scratching, … understanding what's there for him to chew on and what's not? Or am I expecting too much too soon?
By my calculations he's about 10 weeks old by now, right? You are definitely expecting too much too soon IMO. I'm not sure when the worst of the chewing/biting is over for most pups, but our Chaos was still gnawing on table and chair legs until she was about 9-10 months old.

Quote:
I suspect he doesn't get enough playtime but we're trying our best as he's not fully vaccinated yet and we don't go out as much as we probably should but we do our best and play with him around the house (throwing balls and stuff).
You need to get him out and about - the socialization aspect is crucial to prevent issues later. He needs to be exposed to lots of different people, noises, surfaces to walk on, etc. I would bring him to areas where there are lots of people but not necessarily dogs, avoid contact with dog pee/poop, and pick him up if you need to get through a very doggie area. Honestly the early socialization is probably the most important thing right now, and something you can't really make up for later in life.

Quote:
I think it would be easier if we crate trained him but the crates cost like ÂĽ of my monthly salary so we didn't plan to buy one. (But if you all suggest it would be for the best, we will think about it some more)
I think you're in a different part of the world, but do you have anything like Craigslist available? Try that, or freecycle, or your local animal shelter/rescue organization - often you can get a free of cheap crate that way.

Quote:
He doesn't obey on first command but after a few times that I repeat him to stop/quit. Sometimes, I carry him to his spot because it's the only way to make him stop. Even then, sometimes he doesn't stay there but tries to get back and jump some more.
I'm not sure if this has been mentioned before, but is he dragging a leash around the house? That is a good way to enforce the rules and remove the puppy from something he shouldn't be doing. You'll probably want to use a lightweight leash that isn't too expensive for this, as it may get chewed up. BTW, how much exercise is the pup getting? I've found that lots of exercise definitely helps to take the edge of the "puppy crazies".
post #22 of 29
Thread Starter 
Thank you so much for your answer. I'll write more as soon as I put my kids in bed.
post #23 of 29
Thread Starter 
He's 10 weeks old.
So, I guess I'm expecting too much of the pup.
I lost myself in thinking that if you did it right the dog would instantly learn and change the behavior (I was watching too much of the dog whisperer show?).

Quote:
You need to get him out and about - the socialization aspect is crucial to prevent issues later.
I was constantly weighing the benefits of going out and about vs. the risks of exposing him to other dogs when not fully vaccinated (even the vet told us not to go out). But I was thinking about how unnatural this arrangement was. I'll think about possible places to walk him.

We don't have anything like the craiglist or freecycle but I know few vets and I'll ask around.. maybe they can help.

Quote:
I'm not sure if this has been mentioned before, but is he dragging a leash around the house? That is a good way to enforce the rules and remove the puppy from something he shouldn't be doing. You'll probably want to use a lightweight leash that isn't too expensive for this, as it may get chewed up.
I'll try it. Should I tie him to me so he can go where I go, or to a piece of furniture, to make him stay in one place?
post #24 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by HealingBeam View Post
I lost myself in thinking that if you did it right the dog would instantly learn and change the behavior (I was watching too much of the dog whisperer show?).
Yeah, instant results only happen on tv. Otherwise it wouldn't sell well, would it?

Hey, did you know he apparently uses shock collars behind the scenes to get those fast results? That's one of the reasons they say it's for entertainment only.

Quote:
I was constantly weighing the benefits of going out and about vs. the risks of exposing him to other dogs when not fully vaccinated
Yeah, places without many dogs are good, and since he is small you can pick him up if there are dogs that worry you around. Doggie socialization is good too, but for that you can find a friend with a dog who you know is healthy.

Many dog folks will tell you that the risks of under-socializing are higher than those of exposing an unvaccinated pup (FWIW I think it's a sliding scale - at some point the benefits are greater). Plus there are folks who don't vaccinate at all or do it minimally.

Quote:
I'll try it. Should I tie him to me so he can go where I go, or to a piece of furniture, to make him stay in one place?
It's a very flexible method - you can just keep it attached so you can pick it up and lead him away when he's bothering the kids or has something he shouldn't (without having to chase him ). You can also step on the leash if he's running away.

If you'd like to keep him with you then tethering him to you is great. This way you can make sure he isn't bothering the kids or vice versa. It's also useful for keeping an eye on pups while housetraining.

Tethering him is a good way to practice not jumping on you and the kids. Basically you approach as long as he is calm, and if he jumps you step away. The idea is that he gets attention/petting from you only when he has "4 on the floor". You'll have to make sure the kids understand what to do to avoid confusing him. I think there is a better explanation of this exercise in the My Smart Puppy book (they have lots of other little things like that too, I definitely recommend it).
post #25 of 29
Thread Starter 
More questions...

Our puppy is not yet fully house broken. I think he might be peeing when protesting about something and he pees when he's excited or when remebers too late to go out and pee. That's ok, I clean up, do not mention anything in a negative way and maybe I could praise him a bit more when he pees outside or when he actually asks to let him outside.
Something I have a problem with is that he occasionally poops in the middle of the night. If I wake up on time and hear he's awake, I'll let him out but if I don't hear him, lately he'll poop and eat all the poop or at least a bit of it. Yuck!
What's going on? Is he trying to clean after himself?

We still have a problem with his excitement - he jumps at us, bites in play, etc. but much less than before (we now go out 3 times a day). And I use the leash in the house if I need some quiet time with my toddler and the dog is totally in playing/jumping mood.
He's a real joy now.

Oh, and a question about the food.
We feed him Canidae (4 meats type) and occasionaly cooked meat/veggies (I offered raw but he refused it few times). Is it ok to (sometimes) switch to different type of Canidae food (for ex. Salmon) or we should stick to the type we're feeding with now?
post #26 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by HealingBeam View Post
More questions...

Our puppy is not yet fully house broken. I think he might be peeing when protesting about something and he pees when he's excited or when remebers too late to go out and pee. That's ok, I clean up, do not mention anything in a negative way and maybe I could praise him a bit more when he pees outside or when he actually asks to let him outside.
Something I have a problem with is that he occasionally poops in the middle of the night. If I wake up on time and hear he's awake, I'll let him out but if I don't hear him, lately he'll poop and eat all the poop or at least a bit of it. Yuck!
What's going on? Is he trying to clean after himself?

We still have a problem with his excitement - he jumps at us, bites in play, etc. but much less than before (we now go out 3 times a day). And I use the leash in the house if I need some quiet time with my toddler and the dog is totally in playing/jumping mood.
He's a real joy now.

Oh, and a question about the food.
We feed him Canidae (4 meats type) and occasionaly cooked meat/veggies (I offered raw but he refused it few times). Is it ok to (sometimes) switch to different type of Canidae food (for ex. Salmon) or we should stick to the type we're feeding with now?
With the peeing, maybe try taking him out on a schedule (ie frequently, before he asks)?

With the poops - is he fed free choice, or 3x day? (I usually shift to 2x/day around 4 months, after the adult teeth are in)? Maybe feed him dinner a little earlier, & make sure he gets a walk last thing before you go to bed, & 1st thing in the AM? Food changes are OK, just do it gradually (mix them for a week, gradually making the new food be the main ingredient).

Jumping up & stuff - work on teaching him obedience & agility exercises - he's too little to jump over big obstacles, but he can sit, down, come, stay, retrieve, crawl through, step over things, weave through obstacles, etc - this is fun & engaging for the pup, you can just do little 5-10 min sessions (short is better for pups, anyhow), it reinforces you as someone in charge & interesting to listen to, & since the training is a source of attention, he learns that performing the exercises gets people to pay attention to him (instead of jumping or nipping). My dogs will run & sit in from of me, do a down, do a leap into the air to sit in heel position, etc, when they are soliciting my attention.

Anyhow, hope these suggestions help, & he sounds like a nice pup!
post #27 of 29
I would get a crate. Maybe second hand? Or at least cordon off a place for him where he can be quiet and safe (we use our front entryway with our 12 week old pup). Then when you are starting to feel irritated or just can't watch him for a bit, you can put him in there, he will quickly learn to rest quietly, and you can get a bit of a break. He should also not soil in there at all once he associates it with "his" sleeping/eating space.

It's been a lifesaver for us when I need to run down adn do laundry, or spend time with the kids (or give my baby space to play without the puppy)...

If a crate is so expensive, could you rig something up (a baby gate and a laundry room?) It is better if it's in the space you spend a lot of your time in so pup isn't lonely...
post #28 of 29
Thread Starter 
We will try to make him sort of a crate out of baby gates from baby's bed, more to give him his private space but also to create the time for our toddler to play freely without our dog (all the toys end up being chewed up).
We feed him 3 times a day.. after his morning walk, after his midday walk (short) and after his big afternoon walk (around 4-5).
We feed him Canidae's ALS and we feed him little less than 1 1/2 cups.

And the questions

1. We (still) have a problem with peeing and pooping indoors.
He still has accidents with peeing.. less than before but I expected he'll be trained by now. We made him a spot in the hall where he can pee in the wee hours (during the night or in the early morning, before I get dressed for a walk).. our neighbors are my parents so they don't mind him peeing there but I expected he won't b needed it, he'll manage to wait until we go outside. Maybe I'm impatient and maybe I don't recall how long did it take for Ginger (the dog we had before him) to learn to wait until we're out of the building.
Also, he doesn't have clear clues that he has to go – only I'm able to understand that he needs to go. And, when I'm at home he usually doesn't have any accidents but with my DH or when DD is alone.. accidents happen.
Sometimes he has to poop in the middle of the night. If I don't hear him and let him out of the apartment, he poops and then tries to clean the whole thing by eating the poop (yuck!).
He goes for a walk in the evening, about 3 hours after his last meal and if he doesn't poop then, my DH walks him shortly before bedtime just to give him the chance to poop outside the house. And he still poops inside sometimes.
He is on a schedule, has at least 3 walks daily – first thing in the morning, an hour before bed time in the evening, and one big walk in the afternoon when he can run free without the leash, and if we can squeeze in, 2 10-minute walks (just to take him out to pee and poop on the grass).. beside that, I take him out in the hall after the play, after his naps, after his meals and whenever he acts suspicious.

2. His stools are still not firm all the time (at least one stool a day) and smell horrible.
We feed him the least amount of food recommended for his weight. Beside that, he gets raw carrot or apple from time to time or a dog biscuit or treat of some kind. I can feel his ribs easily, he really is skinny. He eats Canidae ALS and likes it. I tried raw but he doesn't want to get anywhere near it (I tried different types of meat).

3. I fear he is hungry. He is constantly asking for food, jumping around the table when we eat (I'm working on that.. he acted ok when he was younger but now it's a mess.. he's trying to steal the food and if I use the leash he barks and yells and chews the leash) and trying to steal the food.
He once jumped at the table and ate DD's soup (that was the first and last time we left the food unattened on the table). And he'd eat anything he'd find while walking.. everything has to end up in his mouth (not only other dog's poop).
Is that normal behavior or he really is undernourished or we need to switch to another type of food? I wanted to increase the amount of food he gets but didn't know if that was a good idea because of his stools.

That all for now.
Thank you all so much for your suggestions and help.
post #29 of 29
Thread Starter 
I forgot to tell you that he poops huge amounts. I'm surprised that a puppy can poop so much.
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