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anyone have rabbits?

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
does anyone raise rabbits for food? we just acquired some. the storey's guide is in route, but does anyone have rabbit wisdom to share? recipes? advice?

(we'd been planning on getting them but hadn't made real plans & all of a sudden the super cheap opportunity to get 4 does, one buck and cages for all happened so suddenly! now i'm trying to figure out what to do with them! i've never even cooked a rabbit before. eek!)
post #2 of 15
Hello! and welcome to Rabbiting ...lol

We have rabbits here on our farm and we use them for food and sell the dwarves to pet stores and drive by city dwellers.
At the peak of their season, middle of summerish (we only breed them in spring and summer as we dont want winter babies) we usually have about 40. Right now were down to 5 does, and 1 dwarf. We lost our male through the winter and are getting a new one this weekend to start the breedding cycle. Are you looking to butcher at home? We do everything here ourselves, and let me tell you that was a bit of a learning curve. They are a bit easier then chickens in the sence there are no feathers, but a bit harder cuz their rabbits.
As for pointers. I am not sure what you sort of want. But if you have some questions. I can answer them as best as I can?
cheers
Sarah
post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 
my dh is a hunter so he does know the processing aspect, fortunately. it's going to be a do-it-ourselves bit.
hm.. what kind of set up do you have for them? we have the cages and are building a hutch for them this weekend. i guess, anything you know about who goes where, what to do with the babies (when to move them), husbandry (hate that word!) kinds of tips, and recipes. i'm assuming the processing part he's got covered. and, like i said, we've got a book coming, but i like personal advice a bit better.. where do you get your information from?
thanks!!!
post #4 of 15
Oh goody goody, someone wants to talk rabbits!!!! Yippee!

If you search "rabbit raising mamas" there are a couple of threads from way back when....

What kind of rabbits do you have? We raise Californians. We started w/Satins a few years ago, but they were just bad rabbits I guess because they didn't work out for us. I think the buck had been out in the heat (TX) too long and had gone sterile. They also didn't taste anywhere near as good as our Californians!

Currently we have 4 breeding does, and 3 almost-breeding age does (they should be ready next month, if I remember correctly). We have 3 bucks and currently have 20 bunnies in the grow out hutches. They will start going in the freezer in the next couple of weeks, and a couple may go on the grill this weekend.

We did have 8 breeding does, but had a genetic "twisted gut" issue so we had to cull several (they were related). Now that we have that straightened out, we should be good! We raise for our table, and also meat pens for county (4-H) shows--that's 4 rabbits and they sell for $100-120 per pen, depending who I'm selling to/how many they buy at once. That helps pay for lots of feed!

As for set up, never put adult rabbits in the same hutch, unless you are breeding them. And then you'd take the doe to the buck, NOT the other way around because the does are very territorial. Make sure that each hutch has a place for the rabbit to get up off the wire (are your hutches all wire or wire and wood?). We use a ceramic tile turned upside down. We feed Purina rabbit chow, mainly because it's the only pellet my rabbits won't waste much of. Otherwise, they scratch it out of their feeders. We water them w/a semi-automatic watering system, which you will find out about in the Storey guide you have on the way. The only thing about it is that during the winter the water in the lines froze up and clogged up the valves bigtime. So we bought water bottles to have on hand for emergencies. I always keep extra tubing for their waterer, because we have had mysterious holes appear once in awhile.

Breeding....As I said, put the doe in with the buck. Stay there, it won't take long. I sometimes have to um, turn the buck around so he does his business at the right end of the doe, lol. Other than that, just watch for the doe to lift her hindquarters (I've had to help there, too, if she doesn't seem receptive) and for the buck to make a grunting noise (not always) and basically fall over sideways, lol. It's really funny. Then remove the doe, check her hind end to see if it's wet in the right spot, and put her back in her hutch. Put her back in with the same buck 8-10 hrs later. A doe is stimulated by the actual act, and her eggs won't release until hours later. Do not put her back in w/anyone else (some people are tempted to a couple of weeks later if they don't feel anything when they palpate her belly). Does can actually conceive later in the other side of her uterus, and that can result in a mess. FWIW, I can never ever feel anything at all in them, but about a week before they kindle I can watch quietly and see babies moving in there. I have RARELY ever had a doe not conceive.

For nesting boxes, we have one wooden one and the rest I made out of floor wire and I use a vinyl piece of material cut to fit on the bottom so I don't accidentally injure a baby's leg. You can also use cardboard and if you live where it's very cold, you can line the sides of the nesting box, too. You actually give the nesting box to the doe on the 27th day after breeding. I fill it with hay and that's it. She should have her babies by day 32, but I've had one doe go as long as 35 days, so be patient. When the doe kindles, immediately check them out. Give the doe a piece of raw sweet potato or banana to busy her while you remove the nesting box from her hutch. Remove any dead kits or remaining afterbirth and check the live ones out all over. If they have parts that are purple you can rub them a bit. They should pink up pretty soon after birth. There should be lots of fur in the nesting box. If there's not ALOT, then just pull some out of the does belly and sides. Should come right out, esp. if you catch them really soon after birth. If you have babies that were scattered on the hutch floor, even if they are stiff and cold sometimes they can be rubbed back to life. One of the best tricks I learned was to take a sandwich baggie and put the baby in it. Do not close the baggie! Put the baggie down in a sink of nice warm (but not hot) water and if it is saveable, after a few minutes it should start wiggling. Warm it thoroughly before putting it back in the nesting box. I've also warmed them w/a heat lamp (carefully) and had them inbetween my boobs while I get them to the sink. **normally a doe who has her kits on the wire is either inexperienced or a bad mother. The latter cannot be fixed and that doe goes in the freezer. Otherwise my does get one more try.** Check the babies every single day. In a couple of days they should be getting some fur. And you should see a fat belly if they have been getting milk. If they look all wrinkly, for some reason they aren't getting fed and you may need to try to foster them out to another doe. It's not often that you have to do this. For this reason, though, I always breed more than one doe at a time. I have not had luck trying to feed them myself (goat milk or kitten stuff). Oh, once in awhile a kit will stay attached to mama when mama jumps out of the nesting box. If it gets cold, it will die. Or mama may accidentally stomp on it. Oh yeah, and don't worry if you don't see mama nursing them. Most does only nurse once a day, some do it twice or three times. The doe may jump into the box when you come in because she is protective. I have one that will try to attack (her name is Psycho Bunny) when she is preggo or just had kits. I've been bitten by various does. Just be prepared, but it's not that bad, really.

There are times you will have to make the decision to put down a kit yourself. I won't lie. It's a hard decision, but one you must be prepared to make. The easiest and quickest way is a big rock (sorry). From my experience, the one that looks like it is struggling is and won't make it. It will only get worse, so the sooner you make your decision, the better. You will have to learn this yourself, though, and that guilt that goes along w/NOT making the decision soon enough is awful.

Let's see....if your bucks get too hot, they will become sterile. Sometimes permanently. They need their testicles to stay cooler than 80 degrees F. Rabbits do not do well in heat and humidity. We keep our breeders in an insulated, well ventilated rabbitry with an a/c unit. we have reserve grand champion breeders, and cannot afford to lose them.

Let me know if you have any other questions or if I didn't answer one thoroughly.

ENJOY YOUR RABBITS!!!!

ETA: Depending on when I'm breeding and for what reason, I will wean the bunnies between 4 and 6 weeks. I try to always start the process on wk 5 ( I keep detailed spreadsheets) and it takes about a week. If it is a large litter (8 or more), then I take 2 off at a time and put them in the grow out hutch. If it is a smaller litter I will take only one at a time. If I'm pushing my does for any reason ( breeding them sooner than normal for a meat pen sale breeding schedule for instance) I'll wean earlier, but not earlier than 4 wks! Oh, and you can rebreed your does 2 wks after they kindle if you need. And if for some reason one doesn't kindle you can rebreed her immediately, as long as you are SURE she didn't conceive (see above for gestation).

Do not EVER feed young rabbits greens. They can get nasty diarrhea and die.

I remove the nesting box around 2 1/2 wks-3 wks. Usually they have their eyes open and start getting out. After I put one or two back in for a few days, I'll just take the box out. Then you'll see them munching on food and drinking water.

One last thing. Occasionally you will have a doe who does not kindle, but you are SURE she was pg because you saw them moving. It is possible for a doe to retain her litter. If that happens, one of 2 things will happen as a result. 1) she becomes sterile, or 2) she will pass mummified kits next time she kindles. I have seen this (both ways).

As for recipes, wow, I could go on forever....We'll talk more about that later, lol. Let's just say you are going to love domestic rabbit in so so so many ways!

Butchering......my 11 yo dd and my 21 yo dd butcher ours.
post #5 of 15
Oh my, I forgot to mention the benefits of rabbit poo in your garden. If you do garden, your garden will be so much better! if you don't currently garden, you should start!

http://www.vegetablegardener.com/ite...-in-the-garden
post #6 of 15
Wow, that was so fun & fascinating to read, chicky2. Thanks so much for typing all that out! Totally educational.
From,
A someday meat rabbiter
post #7 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by zjande View Post
Wow, that was so fun & fascinating to read, chicky2. Thanks so much for typing all that out! Totally educational.
From,
A someday meat rabbiter
You are quite welcome! I always love to share the bunny knowledge. It is such a great way to feed my family, and has worked out so well for us.
post #8 of 15
Oooohhh, rabbits! I raised them when I was a kid! Everything Chicky said is great advice.

I couldn't afford an a/c in the hutch, so I had a box fan set in the west window, which blew down the aisle and out the east window. The windows had lift-up awnings so the shed could be closed more the colder it got, and the awnings could also act as shade. (I lived on the Mississippi Gulf Coast)

My shed was a longish shed with the cages suspended on each side of the aisle. The aisle was lined with 2x12s to keep the poop out of the aisle.

I'd toss the manure directly on mom's garden whenever it needed to be cleaned out, and then onto the compost pile once she got that set up. It won't burn plant roots, so it can go directly on the garden. You can also get gardeners to come clean your hutch for free, in exchange for the manure.

Having a platform for the rabbits to lie on, off the cage floor, is VERY important. Chicky's idea is a great one, you don't want to use anything the rabbits could chew up and ingest. Make sure you clean the platforms regularly, so the rabbits are hopping around in urine. I also scrubbed the cage bottoms once a week, to get rid of the urine's ammonia. The urine will eventually eat through the metal of the cage.

For recipes, this is the book that I used, and it has really good ones in the back. The ones I still make (although I have to use chicken these days) is the rabbit and dumplins, and the creole rabbit. Both of those dishes never had any leftovers! I think I still have this book. Send me a PM to remind me to look!
post #9 of 15
Thread Starter 
thanks chicky2 and dirtroadmama!!! it's great to read this information.
i wasn't initially so excited about the rabbits, but i am pretty stoked now!
my dh and a friend built the hutch over the weekend, and it's great! they're in hanging cages inside the hutch.. i can't wait to use the poop in the garden.
i cannot believe how thorough you were, chicky2! i almost don't have any unanswered questions..
we're going to go with the bunnies we have now but eventually hope to move on to a fancier variety. i think they're new zealands, they are white w/pink eyes. honestly, though, it helps me get a little more used to the idea of eating them by them not being especially cute.
everyone who has rabbits seems to be pretty enthusiastic- that makes me feel like it's going to be a great experience.
i really appreciate the information.
post #10 of 15
My rabbits were New Zealands. I had Reds, Whites, and a Blue. Ha! They may not be as cute when they are fully grown, but be aware that the meat is harvested when they are "friers", and that's less cute than a bunny, but still more adorable than an adult.

Anyway, the amount and quality of mean I got from my New Zealands was awesome. Maybe someday I'll have them again. Once you get the routine down, they really aren't too much work. You can even make a little rabbit pen, like a chicken tractor, and give them some "outside time" on the grass. I did that for all my adults, and sat there with them (do NOT mix the does and bucks!!!!!) while they hopped around eatting the clover.
post #11 of 15
We had NZ whites when I was a kid. I never ever thought of a rabbit as a pet. I only see them as food. I have my meat pens labeled "Breakfast", "Lunch", and "Dinner". However, I am *trying* to let myself accept an angora rabbit into our house (we already have a really nice cedar hutch) for my oldest dd. She has Asperger's and is very OCD. She takes it out on her knitting, lol. She would like to have an Angora so she can sit w/it in her lap and spin yarn right off of it. It won't look anything like our meat rabbits, so I think I can handle it, lol.

NZ whites were my first choice, but Californians are what were available. I am NOT regretting that! Honestly, I think they are equal as far as feed:meat and taste. The Californians are the big white rabbits w/black ears, nose, and tail. They have red eyes, too. One thing to remember w/meat breeds (which you have) is that their temperament is not the same as other types. They just aren't lovey-dovey. Like I said in another post, I've been bitten by mine. There are nicer ones than others, though.

BTW, you are sure the rabbits you have are not closely related, aren't you? You can breed grandson back to grandmother if they are good rabbits, but not brother/sister, daughter/son, etc...
post #12 of 15
For those that raise meat rabbits, what do you find is the easiest and most humane slaughter method? I recently learned how to slaughter chickens, but it seems like it would be a little more complicated with a rabbit.
post #13 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by tinuviel_k View Post
For those that raise meat rabbits, what do you find is the easiest and most humane slaughter method? I recently learned how to slaughter chickens, but it seems like it would be a little more complicated with a rabbit.

We use a .22 and then hang them upside down to bleed out (throat gets cut first, of course). From there it's just like peeling off a sweater and scooping out a melon.
post #14 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicky2 View Post
BTW, you are sure the rabbits you have are not closely related, aren't you? You can breed grandson back to grandmother if they are good rabbits, but not brother/sister, daughter/son, etc...
i am fairly certain they're not, but they were someone else's setup. i'm pretty sure they weren't doing that if it's ill advised. i did think it was ok to do that, though.. you just keep the does that you breed and eat the babies, but when the does get old or the buck, you have to get a replacement from elsewhere?
thanks for all this info! whoo-hoo!

and dirtroad mama.. i think eventually it may have dawned on me that since we have a fenced enclosure, i could supervise cage free time, but i'll admit that it hadn't occurred to me until you said something. i will totally let the bunnies roam once they seem a little more secure with their big move! great idea..
post #15 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by hildare View Post
i am fairly certain they're not, but they were someone else's setup. i'm pretty sure they weren't doing that if it's ill advised. i did think it was ok to do that, though.. you just keep the does that you breed and eat the babies, but when the does get old or the buck, you have to get a replacement from elsewhere?
thanks for all this info! whoo-hoo!
I keep track of my breeding on a spreadsheet. I plan to add a new bloodline every couple of years. This last year I got a Reserve Grand Champion unrelated pair for breeders. They are putting out some fantastic bunnies! I would recommend that you look for another rabbit breeder or two nearby so you can have someone to swap with or buy from. My rabbit 'mentor' is the vice president of a nearby town's 4-H. She and her sons raise several breeds and show them. She is an invaluable wealth of information and experience and I have totally tapped into that over the years! Anyway, she sells meat pens for the county shows, and then lots of the people don't know what to do with the rabbits when the shows are over (I still have a hard time believing that, but it's true, lol), so she buys them back at a discount and resells them. So not only do I have an opportunity to buy cheap rabbits, I also know how they placed in the shows. I believe in only breeding the best rabbits I can find.

Another good place to look for rabbits are the county shows. After the shows they have a sale barn.

You are fine to breed these rabbits this year, but if I were you, I would acquire another buck to make sure you have breeding choices. This, of course, also depends on how many rabbits you are wanting to produce. You can breed your does (by the way, how old are your rabbits? Are they proven?) now, then they'll kindle in 30 days. You can rebreed them when the bunnies are 2 wks old and start weaning them at 4 wks, and depending on how many were in the litter, weaning will take a few days. So 2 wks later you have more bunnies....Just to give you an idea of how many you can get. And you should plan to butcher between 8 and 10 wks, but no later than 12 wks. That meat:feed just goes down, down, down after about 8 wks. When you find yourself getting pissy because you are filling their feeder AGAIN, it's butcher time! So yeah, w/4 does, in 30 days you could easily have 32 or so more rabbits, lol.

Oh, I forgot to mention that you cannot use the same buck for more than one doe per day. So you'd have to breed for 4 days in a row to get them all bred. Lucky guy. 8 times in 4 days....

Where you are, I'd be really, really careful breeding in hot weather. As a matter of fact, unless you have them in a/c, I wouldn't let them kindle past the end of May at the very latest. Rabbits can get stressed very easily in the heat and bleed thru the nose (and die). Being pregnant in the heat is just too hard.
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