Help interpreting sewing instructions that came with pattern please! UPDATE #10

[limabean]

I bought a Green Pepper-brand tote bag pattern the other day and was just reading the sewing instructions that came with it, and need some help with one part. It says:

If using a coated or other non-ravelling fabric, proceed with construction.

If using a ravelling fabric, zigzag or sear edges of all pieces before construction.

I'm planning to use canvas, which I assume is a ravelling fabric. So when they say to zigzag the edges, do they mean as an overlock stitch, like in place of serging? I've never done that before -- do you literally let the needle go off the right-hand side of the piece as you zigzag stitch? Is there anything else I should know about doing that?

Thanks so much in advance for your help!

[Chamomile Girl]

Originally Posted by limabean

I bought a Green Pepper-brand tote bag pattern the other day and was just reading the sewing instructions that came with it, and need some help with one part. It says:



I'm planning to use canvas, which I assume is a ravelling fabric. So when they say to zigzag the edges, do they mean as an overlock stitch, like in place of serging? I've never done that before -- do you literally let the needle go off the right-hand side of the piece as you zigzag stitch? Is there anything else I should know about doing that?

Thanks so much in advance for your help!

I think that an overlock stitch can only be done with a serger. Most sewing machines have a zigzag stitch option (mine does but its from 1964). You shouldn't need to go off the edge of the fabric because the stitch will be hidden by your seam allowance.

[luv-my-boys]

I agree with the pp, I think its asking you to either serge or zigzag your pieces prior to sewing if its a fabric that will unravel (cotton, muslim,etc) as opposed to say vinyl.

All you would need to do is do a zig zag stich around the pieces and then sew it up. the zig zag should be hidden in your seam allowances.

[limabean]

Thank you! I bought the fabric today and am excited to start the project! I'm a little dismayed by all the prep work (tracing the pattern so I don't have to cut the original, zigzagging all the edges, cutting out the pieces on my woefully undersized cutting mat, etc.), but hopefully once all that is out of the way it'll go fast.

[KristyDi]

I was taught to let the needle go off the right edge of the fabric to mimic an overlock stitch, but I don't think it matters that much, if you don't go off the edge, the fabric just frays up to where the stitching is.

[ctdoula]

Personally, I would sew the seams with the proper seam allowance (typically 5/8") and then do the zigzag in the seam allowance, if I was going to do it at all. You could also do double stitching for the seams about 1/8" apart to reinforce the seams instead.

[limabean]

Originally Posted by ctdoula

Personally, I would sew the seams with the proper seam allowance (typically 5/8") and then do the zigzag in the seam allowance, if I was going to do it at all. You could also do double stitching for the seams about 1/8" apart to reinforce the seams instead.

The pattern specifies to double stitch as well as doing the zigzagging. I guess since the bag isn't lined, the seam allowance will show on the inside so they want it to look neat instead of all frayed? That's a good idea to just sew the pieces together and then zigzag stitch inside the seam allowance -- that way I'd be doing both pieces at once instead of having to go around each piece separately. Thanks for the tip!

ETA: I suppose I could also just do a French seam so that the seam allowance is completely hidden...

[sapphire_chan]

Originally Posted by ctdoula

Personally, I would sew the seams with the proper seam allowance (typically 5/8") and then do the zigzag in the seam allowance, if I was going to do it at all. You could also do double stitching for the seams about 1/8" apart to reinforce the seams instead.

And or put bias tape on all the exposed seam bits.

Since I hate that sort of work--zigzagging edges, binding seams, etc--I tend to always make a lining. (And then generally see if I can make it reversible. )

[sapphire_chan]

Originally Posted by limabean

I suppose I could also just do a French seam so that the seam allowance is completely hidden...

Or flat-fell which would make the seam, um, flat

[limabean]

UPDATE:

That was SO easy ... I'm sort of embarrassed about how much I agonized over it.

I ended up not zigzagging around all the pieces first, and I'm so glad I didn't because later in the instructions it had me zigzag within the seam allowance anyway -- who knows why it would have had me do it twice.

Anyway, the bag came out really cute! Next time I'll move the straps in a little since they look kind of far apart to me, but other than that I'm really happy with it, and now that I know how easy it is I think I can knock these out really quickly. Thanks for all your help on my several threads on this subject.

[Chamomile Girl]

Ooooh...that looks great! If you're going to be knocking them out any chance we'll see them in a future MDC craft swap ?

[limabean]

Originally Posted by Chamomile Girl

Ooooh...that looks great! If you're going to be knocking them out any chance we'll see them in a future MDC craft swap ?

Oh, that's a good idea! We'll see if I still have all this motivation after making 6 more for various family members' Christmas gifts.

[justKate]

Very cute!  What did you end up doing with your seam?

[limabean]

Originally Posted by justKate 

Very cute!  What did you end up doing with your seam?

The instructions had me sew right sides together and then zig-zag inside the seam allowance, so I did it that way the first couple of times, but then I started doing a French seam and flat-felling, which looks a lot more finished inside (and was SO easy!). I've also been cutting a piece of poster board and putting it in the bottom of the bag for stability and to cover up the folded-down corners on the bottom. I've got it down to a 40-minute process per bag.