sewing with knits...need help troubleshooting "yoga" pants that keep splitting at the seams

[doulawoman]

I don't mean to be a thread hog, but I seriously need help and this question deserves a thread of its own.

I made yoga style pants with directions from here:

http://www.make-baby-stuff.com/maternity-yoga-pants.html 

and they turned out great, I cna wear them...except...even though I allowed for enough space around the butt, the seams there keep splitting, even though they aren;t too tight. I don;t have a walking foot or ball point needle (the tutorial didn;t mention these, I didn't know most ppl use them till i was done) I like the pants and want to save them...is there anything I can do to reinforce them?

[iowaorganic]

Try a stretch stitch.  It looks like a wide short z.  That will make a huge difference. 

[doulawoman]

there are several that look similar to that on my machine. One that i tried almost broke the needle. I have an OMEGA machine.

[stik]

A couple thoughts: 

- it sounds like your seam is pulling out because it was never really stuck, if that makes any sense.  Are you sure that your bobbin is properly threaded?  What does your lower thread tension look like?  Are you sure the needle wasn't in backwards?  Those things all cause problems for me sometimes.

- alternately, your needle might have been too hard core for your fabric, causing the fabric to tear and leaving nothing for the seam to hold on to.  This might happen if you were using a very delicate fabric or a very sharp needle (like for denim). 

- Is your thread up to the challenge?  Sometimes, cotton thread disintegrates in my machine.  All-purpose polyester is stronger. 

- I've never used a walking foot, but I do use a ball point needle.  You can get them at Joanne's and they aren't horribly expensive.

- Which way is the stretch going in your fabric?  It should be going side-to-side.  If it's going up-and-down, that seam is under a TON of pressure and you'll have to start over. 

- When I sew pants, I use a straight stitch for the seam, then I sew a zig-zag in the seam allowance for extra security. 

If all else fails, take the problem to www.sewingmamas.com.  They know everything.

[iowaorganic]

I have no idea your machine-  but on mine I have to change the foot to a zig zag. 

[Think of Winter]

If the seams are giving rather than the fabric, that's good news.  If the fabric is ripping, then you're not going to have much to work with.  Also, if the fabric stretches more lengthwise than widthwise, there is probably not much you can do to fix it.  Did you cut the pattern lengthwise on the fabric, ie top to bottom parallel with the selvedge?

Get a bp needle and reinforce with that, otherwise you risk getting runs in your fabric later.  Read up on sewing knits.  Something might occur to you that you missed before, and give you something to work on.  You can sew knits with a straight stitch, but you need to gently stretch the fabric as you sew it. 

[Think of Winter]

How did it almost break the needle?  Do you have a manual?  Zigzagging is something you're going to want to know how to do.

 

Originally Posted by doulawoman 

there are several that look similar to that on my machine. One that i tried almost broke the needle. I have an OMEGA machine.

[tracymom1]

What about simply reinforcing the seams? If you are using a regular machine instead of a serger, it can be really tricky to get it to work well with knits. I would definitely use a zig zag or - most regular machines actually have an overlock stitch now - that would probably work.

I always sew back and forth several times in the butt and crotch seams to give them a little extra strength. That seems to help with avoiding splits.

[doulawoman]

Lots of replies...I cut it out the only way you can cut pants I guess on a long narrow piece...horizontally?

The fabric is not ripping, just the stitches.

I do know how to zig zag but what my machine manual said was a "stretch stitch" immediately at the fabric and the needle froze . I also used cotton thread so I got a ballpoint needle and some polyester thread to try. Should I do a straight seam reinforced by a zig zag? Overlock stitch..I am going to look into it. My manual isn;'t very good imo and the stutches have weird names.

[stik]

I would do a straight seam and a zig zag.  Good luck!

[RoamingWidgeteer]

I highly recommend woolly nylon in the bobbin - it is a fuzzy, stretchy thread that makes all the difference when sewing elastic fabrics. Also stretch the fabric as you sew it with the zigzag stitch - that gives you a little bit more leeway before the stitches get too tight and the thread breaks.

[LiLStar]

I do a straight stretch stitch. Its like a straight stitch but it reinforces it 3 times!! I love working with knits because it means I don't have to do any seam reinforcing like I do with wovens (haaaate unraveling!!! grrr!!! hisss!!!!) Sometimes if you try to do that stitch way too close to the end of the fabric, then yeah, the machine does try to eat it. One tip I've heard is to get some of  the tear away interfacing and overlap and inch or so of that at the beginning of the seam. That would get it started, then once you get it going there shouldn't be an issue. Then you should be able to just tear the interfacing off. 

[andisunshine]

It sounds as though your machine needs ballpoint or universal needles. First, though, take a minute to clean your throatplate and your bobbin case. Totally re-thread top and bottom. Change to a fresh needle of whatever you have handy. Use a finer needle if you have one, like 70/10. Then test on a scrap. Sometimes the bobbin thread gets jammed really easily if there is lint or stray threads under the throatplate. This can also happen if the bobbin is not threaded properly. A new needle assures the problem is not a chip in the plating along the scarf of the needle. If this does not help then my guess is you need a ballpoint or universal needle. I buy universal so I don't have to change between sharps of ballpoints. Good luck!

[doulawoman]

I have tried both a ballpoint and universal needle. I think I may need a walkign foot. My pants zare wearable...though the seams show a bit, I did a couple of wide zig zags along the butt and no more ripping but they're not super trustworthy. I went on to make http://sewliberated.typepad.com/SweetPeaPilotCapTutorial2.pdf  jersey pilot cap for dd and it worked (a bit crooked but it is functional) but I broke three needles despite being super careful and going slow and following all her directions. My machine also craps out and cracks needles when I tryto sew terry cloth or flannel. I quit thinking it needed repairs afetr sewing a few diapers and cracking needle after needle....with zig zgas on thicker or stretchier (or both) fabric the needle seems to meet the plate underneath and crack.

I am going to try cleaning it all out. I noticed the threads do get stuck in the gears around the bobbin easily (another problem) and I realized I machine has a zig zag foot...would this help? I've only ever used a "normal" foot. I have virtually no issues sewing quilter's weight cotton.

Thanks for all the responses! I've been trying each suggestion as I go!

[stik]

If the needle is hitting the plate, the machine needs repairs.  There might be some super-crafty vintage-machine sewing mamas who can tell you how to DIY, but it should also be pretty simple for a sew-n-vac shop to take care of.