I've got a machine that's a drop-in bobbin (Brother), one that's got a front-load (Kenmore), and a Singer that I never use. Â The Brother is computerized, and the Kenmore is mechanical. Â I've found that the type of bobbin really doesn't matter. Â The auto-tension on the Brother is a lot easier than the mechanical of the Kenmore, though the Kenmore one lets me personally adjust tension for delicate fabrics.
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A little secret is that MOST sewing machines are made by Janome these days. Â Brothers, Kenmores, Singers, they all comes out of the Janome factory with different stickers on them. Â The higher-cost ones tend to have fancier stitches and stronger motors, so don't really worry about brand so much.
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Look for one that has straight stitch, back stitch, and zig zag. Â If you progress to buttons, you can upgrade to a machine that has one-step button stitches (I swear I went from hating buttonholes so much I refused to doing them, to getting excited to do them, solely because of the one-step on my Brother). Â The rest are mostly decorating stitches, and of those that aren't, you can live without them. Â I sew professionally, and I rarely ever use anything other than those three stitches. Â But for each additional stitch on the machine, you can expect the price to go up another $10-$25. Â Sure, it looks fancier to have all the numbers on the machine for all the different stitches, but save yourself the money.
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If you want a really good machine for very little, look for vintage machines on Craigslist. Â Even the best machines now, unless you're looking at industrial, will be made using a lot of plastic. Â The heavy, built-like-a-tank machines of the 70's and before (especially ones from the early 60's and before) will LAST FOR-EV-ER. Â And they're much less than a new machine. Â My next machine will be a vintage one. Â With machines, you really can't get too old. Â Even the old treadles are amazingly efficient and durable. Â But they take a bit more skill than a mechanical one from the 50's.