I love fruit pies. Â I use Julia Child's recipe for Pate Brisee (in Mastering the Art of French Cooking). Â I substitute some shortening for the butter (though not always) and I base the recipe on 2.5 cups flour, which gives me a lot of scraps. Â Sometimes I use all butter, but never ever no butter.
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Here's what makes my crusts so good:
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Cold cold cold cold cold. Â Give yourself plenty of time to stick your bowl back in the freezer if it feels like it's warming up. Â The butter should be very firm but not frozen. Â I use really icy water to add for the liquid. Â When doing the frissage (explained in the book) the heel of my hand will ache with cold. Â Yup, that cold.
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The other trick I find useful is always using pastry flour. Â WW is easy to find at coops, but I usually use the unbleached pastry flour, harder to find. Â Using pastry flour (either kind) gives you more room to avoid developing the gluten and getting a chewy crust. Â
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For fruit pies, I always use minute tapioca (or tapioca flour, equal to corn starch measure), never corn starch or flour. Â If you do use that, don't do a lattice pie or the bits will get rock hard. Â If you want to do a lattice, use the tap. flour instead. Â The goal is a not a solid slice of pie!
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Use ice water (again) for sealing the top to the bottom crust. Â Did I mention everything should be cold? Â Keep the other half of the dough in the fridge while rolling out.
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I always sprinkle my crusts with sugar and freshly grated nutmeg. Â Brush the pie lightly with *ice* water, all the way to the edges of the crust and sprinkle liberally. Â Turbinado sugar is pretty.
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Another trick I learned, because I always make two pies at once-- five or ten minutes back in the freezer before popping into the oven seems to work wonders on the crust.
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Very important-- put the oven rack on the *lower third* of the oven, not the center. Â This will bake the bottom crust properly and avoid burning the top edges. Â Bake fruit pies at 450 for ten minutes, then 350 for the remainder.
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DO NOT UNDERBAKE!!!!! Â I have eaten so many couldabeengood fruit pies that just needed 15 more minutes in the oven. Â The crust should have a good light brown color all over, and the juices are thick and bubbly. Â When in doubt, leave it for another 5-10 minutes. Â If you've put the pie on the lower third rack, your crust will not burn.
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Don't slice immediately (so hard!) and allow the juices to settle some. Â And reheating pie never works for me-- the crust always gets soft. Â Room temp is next best if it's not still just warm from baking.
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If done properly, your crust should hold nicely together-- not shatter to pieces-- and should not be chewy. Â A little crackle, mmmmm..... good to the last crumb-- no leftover crusts on anyone's plate is the best sign of all.
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APPLE PIE FILLING: 5-6 cups chopped apples (Pink Lady's are a favorite here), 1/4 tsp cinnamon, 1/3 C sugar, 1 Tbsp Minute Tapioca. Â Stir and let sit at least 15 minutes. Â Add to pie and bake.
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BON APETIT!!
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