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post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Fern and Faerie Hand Knit Diaper Soaker Pattern
by ©2003 Fern & Faerie
Please ask permission of the author before linking to this pattern from your website.
Printing or distributing this pattern for sale, and the use of this pattern for commercial use is strictly prohibited. Contact the author for information on obtaining a Cottage Industry License if you wish to use this pattern for home-based commerial use.
©2003 Fern & Faerie

Sizes: Newborn, Small, Medium, Large, Toddler, Super

Measurements taken over a diaper

Pattern Size Clothing Size Hip meas. Crotch depth Leg Circ.
Newborn newborn 12" 16" 6"
Small 0-6 month 14" 18" 7"
Medium 6-12 month 16" 20" 8"
Large 12-24 month 18" 21" 10"
Toddler 24 month-2T 20" 22" 12"
Super 2T-4T 22" 24" 13"

Materials: worsted weight wool yarn (a little bit of nylon is okay – even preferable), double-pointed needles and 16” circular needle in size needed to attain gauge (7), and 2 sizes smaller (5), crochet hook big enough to work worsted yarn.

Gauge: 5 stitches & 7 rows per inch

Directions given for Nb (Sm, Med, Lg, Tod, Sup)

Soaker knitted in the round
You will need to choose between crotch seaming techniques - either woven using a variation of the duplicate stitch, or grafting using kitchener stitch.

Using size 5 dp needles for nb & small sizes or circular needle for larger sizes, cast on 60 (72, 80, 92, 100, 112) stitches using a stretchy cast-on technique (like knitting on or similar)

Join and mark for beginning of round. Work circular in k2p2 ribbing for 2” (2”, 2 ½”, 2 ½”, 3”, 3”)

Change to size 7 needles; work in stockinette (knit all rounds) until soaker measures 3 ½” (4” for all other sizes) after ribbing.

For woven seam technique:
K 7(9, 10, 11, 12, 14) stitches. Bind off 15(18, 20, 23, 25, 28) stitches.

For grafted seam:
K 7(9, 10, 11, 12, 14) stitches. On new dp needle, k 15(18, 20, 23, 25, 28) stitches. Transfer those stitches to a stitch holder, or reserve that needle as unworked.

Continue for both seam methods:
Transferring to a circular needle (if not already using one) for easier knitting, work in the following pattern:
K2, ssk, knit across to the last 4 stitches. K2 tog, k2, turn work. Purl across, turn.
Continue working in this manner until 15(18, 20, 23, 25, 28) stitches remain. Work in stockinette (k 1 row, p 1 row) for 2(0, 0, 6, 10, 12) rows.

For woven seam technique:
Cast off remaining stitches.

For grafted seam technique:
Transfer remaining stitches to a new dp needle.
Transfer st from holder to a new dp needle.

Continue for both methods:
Lay out soaker with ribbing at the top and the crotch in the center (a). Fold the bottom edge up so the bound-off edges or stitches on the dp needles meet (b). Weave together or graft together using kitchener stitch.



Work cuffs:
Anchor end of yarn to the inside of cover at the joined part of a leg-hole. Working clockwise around the leg-hole with a crochet hook, pull a loop through the end stitch of each row, transferring loops to size 5 dp needles (evenly distributed). (c) You should have 32 (36, 40, 52, 60, 68) stitches on your needles.

Work cuff circular in K2P2 ribbing until 1 ½” (1 ½”, 2”, 2”, 2 ½”, 2 ½”), bind off using suspended bind-off or similar elastic bind-off technique.

Work second cuff as for the first
Weave in & trim yarn ends
Fold cuffs back

Cover knitted flat

On size 5 needles, cast on 60 (72, 80, 92, 100, 112) stitches using a stretchy cast-on technique (like knitting on or similar).

Work k2p2 ribbing for 2” (2”, 2 ½”, 2 ½”, 3”, 3”)

Change to size 7 needles. Work in the following pattern:
*K2, ssk, knit across to the last 4 st, k2tog, k2. Turn work.
P across, turn.
After working 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 10) rows, k across, turn, p across.*
Continue working in this manner until 6 st remain.
K1, ssk, k2tog, k1, turn.
P across, turn.
Ssk, k2tog, turn.
P2, turn.
K2tog, fasten off.

For circular-knit cuffs:
Fold the resulting triangle in half, right sides together, so the ends of the ribbing meet. Stitch the ribbing seam. (d)
Lay out the soaker with the ribbing at the top and the newly sewn seam at the center, still wrong side out. (e)
Fold the point up and stitch from the point down. (f) Stitch for only 26 (31, 33, 30, 30, 29) rows, leaving an opening 32 (36, 40, 52, 60, 68) rows in circumference.
Turn right side out.



Work cuffs:
Anchor end of yarn to the inside of cover at the joined part of a leg-hole. Working clockwise around the leg-hole with a crochet hook, pull a loop through the end stitch of each row, transferring loops to size 5 dp needles (evenly distributed). (c) You should have 32 (36, 40, 52, 60, 68) stitches on your needles.

Work cuff circular in K2P2 ribbing until 1 ½” (1 ½”, 2”, 2”, 2 ½”, 2 ½”), bind off using suspended bind-off or similar elastic bind-off technique.

Work second cuff as for the first.
Weave in & trim yarn ends.

For flat-knit cuffs:
Holding work right side up, with the ribbing at the top, count up 26 (31, 33, 30, 30, 29) rows from the point of the triangle (or 26 (31, 33, 30, 30, 29) rows down from the end of the ribbing). Anchor yarn to the piece at that point. (g)
Working from left to right, right side of the work facing up and the working selvedge edge at the top, use a crochet hook to pull up a loop through the end stitch of each row, transferring loops to a size 5 knitting needle. (c)
Work cuff in K2P2 ribbing until 1 ½” (1 ½”, 2”, 2”, 2 ½”, 2 ½”), bind off using suspended bind-off or similar elastic bind-off technique.

Work second cuff as for the first.
Weave in & trim yarn ends.



Fold the soaker piece in half, right sides together, so the ends of the ribbing meet. Stitch the ribbing seam. (h)
Lay out the soaker with the ribbing at the top and the newly sewn seam at the center, still wrong side out. (i)
Fold the point up so the cuff ends meet and stitch from cuff to cuff. (j)
Turn right side out.


Once the soakers are done, they should be lanolized for water resistance.

Note: The instructions for the cast-on, bind-off, and weaving/grafting techniques mentioned in this pattern are found in the Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Needlework book.

Knitting on: pg 274
Knitting on uses two needles and one yarn length. Each new stitch is formed as in knitting, then is transferred back on to the left needle.
Hold the needle with the slipknot in the left hand. Insert the right needle knitwise and take the yarn around it as for knitting (a). Draw yarn loop through to form a stitch, but do not drop the first loop from the left needle (b). Transfer the new stitch back to the left needle, then knit into it to form the next new stitch.

Suspended bind-off: pg 282
Suspended bind-off is similar to a plain bind-off, but is more flexible, making it suitable for binding off ribbing and other areas where stretch needs maintaining.
Work 2 stitches. *Pull the first stitch over the second (a), but keep the pulled stitch on the left needle (b). Work the next stitch (c), and drop both stitches off the left needle at the same time (d)* Repeat instructions between * until 2 stitches remain; knit these together.

Weaving a seam: pg 344
Lay sections right side up, corresponding stitches lined up. Attach the yarn to the right end. *Insert needle under the next knit stitch from the bind-off on one section, then under the next knit stitch on the other section*

Grafting a seam: pg 344
Kitchener Stitch:
Bring needle purlwise through the bottom, then the top end stitches. Re-insert the needle knitwise through the bottom stitch, then purlwise through the next bottom stitch. *Put needle through knitwise in the top stitch where the thread emerges, purlwise through the next top stitch (a). Put needle through knitwise in the bottom stitch where the thread emerges, purlwise through the next bottom stitch (b)*


Extra Chunkey Wool Soaker Pattern
by Throkmorton/Steph

using 6 1/2 mm needles, cast on 24 (28)sts
Work in k1p1 ribbing for 2 (?) rows.
k1. *yo, k2tog,* repeat from * to * until there is 1 st on needle, k1
k1 p1 for 3 rows
using 10mm needles, k 2 rows in garter stitch
k1, inc 1 st, k to last 2sts, inc 1, k1
k 2 rows
continue these 3 rows until you have 30 (34) sts on the needle
k 4(6?) rows
k1, k2 tog, k across until last 3 sts, k 2 tog, k1
Continue like this until you have 10 sts on your needle
work 10 (12?) rows without alteration
Cast on 9 sts at either end of the row - 28 sts total on needle
k 4 (?) rows
decrease 1 st on either side of row
k 2 rows
decrease 1 on either side again - 24 sts
k until even with back
switch to 6 1/2 mm needles, work 3 rows in k1p1 ribbing
work eyelet row same as above
2 rows k1p1 ribbing
cast off

Legs:
Pick up 28 (32?) sts around leg, work k1 p1 ribbing for 5 rows, cast off
repeat for other leg

Sew up side seams, lanolize and wear!
post #2 of 7
Thread Starter 
Snowflake Hat
pattern courtesy of: Little Turtle Knits



Recommended yarn: Little Turtle Knits 2 ply (or other worsted weight wool)

Recommended Needles: Size 7 (US) 16" circular needles

Gauge: 18 stitches and 20 rows=4" in stockinette stitch

Other Notions: yarn needle, spare knitting needle (size 6 or 7 would be ideal)

Save time by taking the time to do a gauge swatch!!

If you do not achieve gauge on size 7's, switch your needles and do another gauge swatch. If you have to few stitches, go downin size to 6's, if you have to many stitches, go up in size to 8's.

First nuber in pattern is for infant size, second is for toddler/preschool and third is for child. Infant is 18", toddler/preschooler is 20" and child is 22" circumference.

Cast on 80(90, 100) stitches. Join round, being careful that cast on stitches are straight and not twisted around the needle.

Knit every round for 6 rounds.

Purl one round.

Knit every round for 8" (10", 12").

Slip 40 (45, 50) stitches to spare needle. Work three needle bind off. Weave ends in. Work crochet chain (or braid) in each corner of top, about 12" long. Tie together to form top. Emrboider snowflakes or other motif if desired. Below is a pic of the snowflake I do, you start at the center and work each "arm" seperately, always coming back to center, and finish by doing X across the center.




Pithy Knitted Hat
pattern courtesy of: Little Turtle Knits

Here's the pithy pattern I've come up with:
using worsted weight yarn and size 4 or 5 needles, cast on 72 stitches. Join, work 1 x 1 (knit 1, purl 1) ribbing for 6 rounds.
next round: *knit 2, make 1 (use whatever increase method you like best)* to end. Switch to size 9 or 10 needles, and work purse stitch as follows:
round 1:*yo, p 2 tog* repeat til end
round 2: *YO, k2 tog (TBL)* repeat til end
work these two rounds until hat measures 11-12".
Next round: knit 2 together around.
next round: knit 2 together around.
Cut yarn, leaving a 10" tail, thread tail on yarn needle, weave through stitches on circular and pull to tighten the hole and close top of hat. Weave in ends.




Chunky Weight Socks
by Steph - Mom2radata

2 balls Chunky weight yarn (100 gm balls)
4.5 dpn's
4.0 dpn's

Leg

Cast on 44 sts on 4.5 needles. Join in round, being careful not to twist
the stitches. Work 5 rows in K1, P1 rib.

Work 25 rows in K3, P1 rib. This should bring you to 5 inches total. If
you like a longer sock leg, work in K3, P1 rib until 1 inch before starting
the heel.

Change to 4.0 needles and knit 6 rows or 1 inch.

Heel

Slip last 11 sts of the last round and the first 11 sts of the next round
onto 1 needle for the heel, leaving 22 sts on 2 needles for the instep.

With wrong side of work facing, proceed as follows:

Row 1: K1, P4, P2 tog, P3, P2 tog, P3, P2 tog, P4, K1. (19 sts.)

Row 2: *K1, Slip 1. Repeat from * to last st. K1.

Row 3: K1, purl to last st, K1.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until a total of 19 rows have been worked, including row 1.

Next row: K8, K2 tog, K9. (18 sts).

Shape Heel

Row 1: P10, P2 tog, P1, turn.

Row 2: K4, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.

Row 3: P5, P2 tog, P1, turn.

Row 4: K6, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.

Row 5: P7, P2 tog, P1, turn.

Row 6: K8, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.

Row 7: P9, P2 tog.

Row 8: K9, K2 tog. (10 sts.)

With right side of work facing, pick up and knit 11 sts along the side of
the heel (the little bumps along the edge). Knit into the back of the
picked up sts as this will twist them and less likely to make holes.

You should now have one more bump/stitch to pick-up before the instep.
Pick-up this stitch, and then make one st in the space before the instep;
knit these 2 sts tog. This helps to prevent a hole.

Knit across the 22 st for the instep.

Make a stitch between the instep and the first bump of the heel, and then
pick-up the first bump; knit these 2 sts tog. Pick-up and knit 11 sts
another sts along the side of the heel, remembering to knit into the back of
the picked up sts. Knit the next 5 sts, and slip the nest 5 sts of the heel
onto the first needle. The 56 sts are now divided as follows:

Needle 1: 17 sts
Needle 2: 22 sts
Needle 3: 17 sts

You have just completed the hardest part of the sock. Congratulations!!

Proceed as follows:

Row 1:
1st needle: Knit to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: Knit across.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.

Row 2: Knit around.
Row 3: Knit around.

Repeat rows 1 to 3 until 40 sts divided as 9, 22, 9 on the 3 needles.

Continue even for a total of 40 rows from the picked up sts at the heel.

I wear a ladies size 8 1/2 shoe, so the 40 rows fits me. Work the foot for
yourself until 1 1/2 inches are left for the toes.

Shape Toes

Row 1:
1st needle: Knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, (K2, K2 tog) 4 times, K2 tog, K1.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.

Work 3 rounds even.

Row 5:
1st needle: Knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.

Repeat last 4 rows until 20 sts are left. Knit across needle 1. Cut yarn,
leaving a 12 inch length for grafting. Graft toe.

Toe Grafting

Grafting sounds more complicated than it really is. You are joining two
rows together with a knit and purl motion. The trickiest part is not to
pull the yarn too tight, and not too leave it too loose.

Place the 20 sts on 2 needles, 10 sts on each needle.

Thread the yarn thru a darning needle.

Stitch 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 Needle A

Stitch 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 Needle B

The diagram shows the two needles side be side, each with 10 sts.

1. Run the thread thru st 1 as if to purl; drop st 1 off needle A.
2. Run the thread thru st 3 as if to knit. Leave st 3 on needle A.

3. Run the thread thru st 2 as if to knit; drop st 2 off needle B.
4. Run the thread thru st 4 as if to purl. Leave st 4 on needle B.

5. Run the thread thru st 3 as if to purl; drop st 3 off needle A.
6. Run the thread thru st 5 as if to knit. Leave st 5 on needle A.

7. Run the thread thru st 4 as if to knit; drop st 4 off needle B.
8. Run the thread thru st 6 as if to purl. Leave st 6 on needle B.

Repeat steps 5 thru 8 until all sts have been grafted. Darn end in
post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
from member Crayon~

Okay- so as most of you may know I just started making wool butt sweaters and wool longies. But I have had a few people ask me for a pattern, and with most things in the diaper and cover world patterns anyplace are hard to find. So I make Rainey a pair of wool Longies and I did a step by step photo gallery of myself making them! I timed myself and it took me 30 min from start to longies! And I only made my first pair 2 days ago- lol... So if I can do it so can you!

I have included step by step directions under the photos so if you need more info PM me and I will give you all the info I have!

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/angbirth/album?.dir=/82a0

Here are some longies sizes I found in case you are making them for a NB or a gift for a different size baby than you have

Small
11"-18" Waist
8-1/2" Inseam
17" Rise
8-18 lbs

Medium
14"-20" Waist
9" Inseam
18" Rise
13-30 lbs

Large
15"-23" Waist
11" Inseam
18" Rise
25-35 lbs
post #4 of 7

thank you!

i cant tell you how happy i am to find your pix! this is exactly what i have been looking for!
Rach
post #5 of 7

WOW! Thanks

You made that look incredibly easy (as I'm sure it was, for you)...I'm hoping to try some. What type of sweater/wool would you suggest? How do I know I've got a good, absorbant sweater. What does the weave need to be like to work well? Any suggstions on how you'd do that for shorties? Or would that not work?
post #6 of 7
post #7 of 7

butt sweaters

Looks like the photos are not avail anymore. Do you have a new link?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LaLa View Post
from member Crayon~

Okay- so as most of you may know I just started making wool butt sweaters and wool longies. But I have had a few people ask me for a pattern, and with most things in the diaper and cover world patterns anyplace are hard to find. So I make Rainey a pair of wool Longies and I did a step by step photo gallery of myself making them! I timed myself and it took me 30 min from start to longies! And I only made my first pair 2 days ago- lol... So if I can do it so can you!

I have included step by step directions under the photos so if you need more info PM me and I will give you all the info I have!

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/angbirth/album?.dir=/82a0

Here are some longies sizes I found in case you are making them for a NB or a gift for a different size baby than you have

Small
11"-18" Waist
8-1/2" Inseam
17" Rise
8-18 lbs

Medium
14"-20" Waist
9" Inseam
18" Rise
13-30 lbs

Large
15"-23" Waist
11" Inseam
18" Rise
25-35 lbs
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