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Flat-fell vs. French vs. pinked seams  

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
I've been looking up different ways to seam because I'm tired of the messy edges I get after a couple washes. I'm making mostly dresses right now but I also make a lot of pajamas (shorts/pants and tops, some sleeveless, some long sleeved). Which seaming technique is best for armholes. I also made a dress with gathered layers and I hate the seams on that one, too (I've made other gathered stuff but it's usually lined and this dress isn't). Can I use a French seam for those pieces?
post #2 of 5
How are you finishing your seams now? The choice of seam finish depends on a lot of things: what I'm sewing, which seam, what is the fabric, how will I wash and wear the thing, how much time I have or want to invest, etc

I usually finish most seams w/ a serger now that I have one. Before I got a serger, I finished most seams by zig-zagging the edge. Zig-zag close to the stitching of your seam and then trim the seam allowance down next to the stitching. I works well and looks almost as nice as sergeing.

I have never pinked seams b/c I don't trust it. It seems too likely to ravel. I suppose that would depend on what you're making and the type of fabric and care though.

I make flat-felled seams for pants and for something like a jeans skirt. I don't do tailored shirts. I don't do tailored anything.

I do french seams mostly on long straight seams for lightweight fabrics or fabrics that like to ravel a lot. Or if the seams would be seen, like maybe on a sheer or on some relaly loose and flowy garment where the seams might be easily visible.
post #3 of 5
Thread Starter 
I use mostly flannel cotton for winter pajamas (not particularly thick) and thinner cotton for summer dresses. Right now, I don't finish my seams. I cut them and sew them the 5/8" and press them open.

What you wrote helped a lot. I was mainly looking for long dress seams and general raveling fixes. I don't have a serger but I think I'll try zigzagging sometime.
post #4 of 5
For seams on sturdy items that have a lot of topstitching, like flannel jammies or kids pants, I tend to do french seams that I then fell and topstitch down. I especially do that on shoulder seams or anywhere that the weight of the garment will be pulling.

For nice garments, I generally do french seams and I do serged seams on things that I make up quicker, but will get a lot of use.
post #5 of 5
I think pinking and topstiching works pretty well on some kinds of fabrics- ones that don't ravel too much in the first place! I love the french seam on straight seams but it doesn't work as well on tight curves such as child size armholes. There are some tricot binding products that work pretty well in cases like this and also for gathered seams such as at a waistband- 'Seams Great', is one that comes to mind. I think it's a Dritz product, but in any case it is sold in the notions department. You can make your own seam binding from tricot yardage, as well. When you cut it on the bias, it has a natural tendency to curl at the edges when you pull it gently, lengthwise. Use this curl to it's best advantage, when applying it to the seam allowance. No need to press, first, but it is a two step application. Woven binding is a bit stiff and scratchy for this application, IMHO.
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Mothering › Forums › Natural Family Living › Arts & Crafts › Sew, Serge, Embroider › Flat-fell vs. French vs. pinked seams