I thought about where I should take the course of explanations from here, and thought in order for you to understand this, I'll have to explain that, but in order for you to understand that, I'll have to explain the other, and soon in my head it was a whole course on surfactants starting with "p-chem" (physical chemistry), and no way even a sucker for holding court like me is going to post that here! Maybe some day I'll work one up for
my WWW site. Meanwhile I need a real job.
So for now I'll just give as an example of surfactant selection how I came up with
my US pat. 5,336,446 foam formula. Carol's children were water lovers (that's
water, not washing -- she still had to remind them to use soap for other than their amusement), and as a WAHM she took advantage by stationing herself where she could do work and cast glances at them in the bathtub. This resulted in lengthy soaks, and they also loved bath foams. However, the oldest of them, Gwen, was limited in the ability of her vulva, vagina, and/or urethra to tolerate the suds, and the amount and duration of foams that she and her bro & sis really wanted required too much of the common bubble bath preps for her to soak in without a painful aftermath. Inspired by a Beverly Cleary story, they also developed a taste for play with shaving cream (cheaper by volume than the toothpaste used in the story), but when they piled some up in the bathtub and Gwen sat in it, she almost instantly got a sore, rashy crotch.
So...how to satisfy these children with lots of wet foam, preferably thick stuff like shaving cream, that they could play in for hours at a time without Gwen's suffering painful urination or needing A & D ointment? First I looked at the materials they'd been using. The soap in shaving cream usually includes a considerable excess of fatty acid, especially stearic, to make the lather creamy & lasting, which has the side effect of making it milder than most soaps. However, for reasons I can only guess at, at that time it was common for shaving creams to include a pinch of SLS (SDS), as was the case with theirs. I have some evidence that mixtures of soap & SLS are more irritating than either soap or SLS alone. This is frequently the case with surfactants -- increasing or decreasing the irritancy of each other -- and they're usually used in combination, so it may be misleading to try to evaluate preparations on the basis of individual ingredients. It was possible that the propellant hydrocarbon gas(es) in the shaving cream bothered Gwen's pudenda too, but because the bubble bath pointed to a problem with surfactants, that's where I focused.
(Quite a while later to isolate whether Gwen had a problem with soap, we had her bubble-bathe with increasing amounts of Ivory Snow -- which at that time was still soap powder -- and did not reproduce the shaving cream problem. However, by then she may have outgrown her urogenital sensitivity, as some children do. Other women actually
grow into the problem, tolerating sudsy preps until or into their teens and
then finding their genitals revolt. Anyway, I do not recommend soap powder, flakes, or liquid soap as bath foam, because on most people's skin it's more irritating than are most soapless formulas, for the same amount of foam.)
Meanwhile their bubble baths were from liquid preps with common formulas such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES, probably laureth-3 sulfate) plus as a foam stabilizer either an alkanolamide (IIRC lauric diethanolamide -- lauramide DEA) or the polymer hydroxyethyl cellulose (as used in Sesame St.'s liquid). The ether sulfate makes bigger bubbles (the size of the individual bubbles in the foam), is more soluble (and hence easier to work with in making a liquid) than, and does better with water "hardness" than the unethoxylated SLS, as well as being milder (as discussed previously). However, by itself its bubbles don't last long unless you use an awful lot, hence the use of foam stabilizers. Lauramide DEA is very effective at preserving bubbles, but is irritating (especially in terms of eye sting, which Gwen's little sister had complained of) and feels sticky unless you rinse well. Hydroxyethyl cellulose is non-irritating but still sticky and less effective and has more use in bubble
blowing solutions. But both foam stabilizers tend to make dry foams that pile up high with bubbles that are big but fragile, rather than the creamy squishy lathery foam that soap makes. I also found that the dryness of their foams increases sting when the foams touch eyes.
I set out to find the mildest surfactants I could use to make a foam that was voluminous enough and would last while children played with it. There was no guarantee that mildness as shown by the usual tests would equal nonirritancy in someone with the special problem of susceptibility to chemical vulvovaginitis or urethritis, but it seemed like a good starting point.
Some products such as Sesame St. liquid and Calgon's Muppet series of children's bubble baths were using mixtures of the milder anionic surfactant disodium lauryl ether-3 sulfosuccinate mono-ester (SLESS) with SLES, as had been found to foam almost as much as the SLES while being nearly as mild as the SLESS alone. Meanwhile many other products were exploiting the finding that mixtures of various anionic surfactants (especially SLES) with zwitterionic surfactants, especially betaines, and most especially alkamidopropyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, were less irritating than either the anionic surfactants or the betaine surfactants alone. That's good because the betaines (which are foamy by themselves) also stabilize foams -- not quite as effectively as nonionic foam stabilizing surfactants such as the alkanolamides previously mentioned or amine oxides, but almost as well if you use a lot.
So I thought, why not combine a sulfosuccinate mono-ester with a betaine surfactant? I used the foamiest betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine (LMB/LMAB), and found that unethoxylated lauryl sulfosuccinates when mixed with it made smaller-bubble, creamier, wetter foam than did the laureth-3 sulfosuccinate. (The same effect is seen with SLS vs. SLESS, but less pronounced.) I wound up working with diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate (NLSS/ALSS) solution rather than disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate (SLSS) powder because it's easier to work with liquids, and without ethoxylation the diammonium salt is much more soluble than the disodium salt. (Again, the same effect but less pronounced is seen with alkyl & ether sulfates.) The betaine solution had the side benefit of being strongly enough pH buffered to stabilize the NLSS against chemical breakdown, saving me the trouble of making a buffer. However, the mixture's foam wasn't very long lasting, and although that was fine for the 3 YO's att'n span, the older kids wanted suds they could play with for hours.
So I added a little of the harsher but bubblier SLES, and the suds became more voluminous and much longer lasting, and the kids loved it, and Gwen didn't get hurt. I found I could also use a larger amount of the milder SLESS instead of the SLES and got the same effect. As a side benefit, I found that the wetter foam didn't sting eyes, even though NLSS & SLSS are rated higher in eye irritancy than is SLESS, which makes a drier, bigger-bubble foam.
Then friends encouraged me to try to make something more of this than just a favor to Carol, and I sought more people with the sore-genitals-from-surfactants problem. I soon learned that some needed the SLES-free version to tolerate it, so now it's a mixture of NLSS, LMAB, and SLESS. Without sticky nonionic foam stabilizers (which admittedly could make the bubbles last a little longer still), you don't feel like you need a shower afterward, and indeed it makes skin nice & soft. An even more skin softening mixture results when instead of LMAB alone I use a mixture of that and palmitamidopropyl betaine (cetamidopropyl betaine), the same way soap makers will mix different fats & oils; the foam is more cottony and the skin feel afterward is extra soft. (Using palmitamidopropyl as the only betaine lessens the foaming.) You can also wash skin or hair with these liquids, and it tends to make hair come out nice.
But are even the best of these mixtures perfect? No way! They don't make foams as fast as common SLES-based formulas, although they will make as much foam eventually if you splash them enough. Kids love splashing it, but adults seem to prefer making foam by just letting water run fast, and they may think of swishing the water hard with their hands & arms for 15 seconds as extra work instead of extra fun. Is their foam as thick as shaving cream? No, though it does approach the consistency of soap lather. Do they defat the skin of people with skin so dry they can't tolerate soap or always need bath oil? Sure; I don't think there's any way to make suds that don't take away some grease, and if your skin is really deficient in oil, you're out of luck there -- although you may be able to tolerate it if you re-grease yourself afterward with lotion or whatnot. But then do they clean as well as soap? Judging by my armpits back when I was stinkier, I think not quite, although it was adequate to wash dishes with. (Oh, and good luck trying to get clean just from foamy bath water with no additional lather on a washcloth; if plain water doesn't do it, a little bit of bubble bath in a tubful of water won't either. So it's not like the kids are going to get out of using soap with this or any other bath foam.) Is it absolute proof against urinary or genital irritation? When the liquid was tested as a peri-vaginal wash in the shower, my most sensitive subject (pregnant, and even when she wasn't pregnant she got sore if ordinary soap even so much as rinsed down into her crotch) did report a mild burning sensation (although none after using it as bath foam). I also found a male subject who, after several daily baths with it, had some painful urination, though he could use it with much greater frequency and to produce more foam than he could tolerate from common bubble baths, which he had to reserve for occasional use. I'd like to have him test it vs. California Baby, but I can't afford to buy him enough, because he'd probably have to use half a bottle of that expensive stuff to get the amount of foam he likes.
Whew. Guess I wound up writing a college lecture anyway, but I hope this gives you some idea of the comparisons involved in evaluating surfactant-based products. Now if only I could make some $ with this.
Robert