help for the big-busted

[Lilike]

i'd like to make this dress:
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4...dresses&page=3
but i'm about a size 18 in the bustline and about an 8 in the waist and hips. i'll need to adjust the pattern but don't exactly know how. any tips on how to do this?

also, this is a style that you can't wear a bra with so i'll need to add some extra support. does anyone have any experience with doing built in bras? for my size (36f) i was thinking boning might be the best bet. ideas?

[oldgirl,newtricks]

That's a pretty pattern. I would get the patten to fit your waist. Then, to adjust the bust, I would measure under the bust from side to side, making sure you have enough coverage. Then I would measure from the under the armpit, loosely across the breast to make sure you have enough fabric for the bottom of the triangle that will make up the halter. It will probably have to be at least 1.5 times the measurement of one breast. I don't know if sewing in cups from an old bra would help, but I would line the thing with some sturdy fabric, like a heavy cotton knit. Make sure the halter strap area is short enough that it really is pulling up on the bust, not just sitting there. You also might have to sew up the middle between the two bust triangle just a bit so you don't have that falling out look.

Clear as mud, I'm sure.

[eepster]

I'm a busty gal (was 34DD before I started nursing) too.

Here's what I'd do. Buy it to fit at the waist. Trace the halter pattern piece then cut it vertically up the center. Piviot the to halvs so they are still conected at the top but you have added room at the bottom.

I might also add a dart.

Hope that makes some sense.

[Lilike]

uh oh. i was going to buy it to fit the bust and make the rest smaller. i don't know what i'm doing!

i have an old bra with a broken strap i was thinking i could try sewing in.

eepster: where would you put the darts?

[eepster]

I'd take the altered halter pattern, cut out of a piece of scrap fabric, and Try it for size then decide. I'm thinking most likely in the corner by the side seam.

However, if the fabric has a design that would make the interuption obvious I would skip it and just gather up the bulk.

[smudge]

Get this book! This is the best book on altering patterns I have found. I can actually buy a pattern using their guidelines and come up with an item that ACTUALLY fits! They take you through everything: from buying the right size, to how to deal with figure flaws.
Happy Sewing!

http://www.nancysnotions.com/NNVia/v...el&newWindow=Y

[eepster]

Originally Posted by smudge

Get this book! This is the best book on altering patterns I have found. I can actually buy a pattern using their guidelines and come up with an item that ACTUALLY fits! They take you through everything: from buying the right size, to how to deal with figure flaws.
Happy Sewing!

http://www.nancysnotions.com/NNVia/v...el&newWindow=Y

That's Nancy Zeeman's website. I learned alot about sewing watching "Sewing With Nancy" on PBS.

[smudge]

Originally Posted by eepster

That's Nancy Zeeman's website. I learned alot about sewing watching "Sewing With Nancy" on PBS.

Amen sister! I love her show and she is apparently scheduled to come here for a 2 day conference in November. However, considering I will have a 2-4 week old baby by then I don't know if I will go. I may just put the babe in the sling and go anyway!

[courtenay_e]

Hummmm. You know, I'd probably buy both size patterns, because I'm lazy (of course, I'd buy them on sale...JoAnn's just had that pattern for $1.99!), cut the top to fit and the waist and skirt to fit. My mom would have a conniption fit because I didn't just take the time to alter it...but hey, I have two kids, a house, and a doula business. When I find time to sew it's a miracle in and of itself...I don't want to fuss with fitting patterns!!!

I do know that halters are famously difficult to make fit just right, though, so I'd also do a muslin of the top, to make sure that it was fitted correctly before I'd cut into the fabric. Yes, I would waste time in one place but not another. I guess it's all in perspective!

[Lilike]

Originally Posted by smudge

Get this book! This is the best book on altering patterns I have found. I can actually buy a pattern using their guidelines and come up with an item that ACTUALLY fits! They take you through everything: from buying the right size, to how to deal with figure flaws.
Happy Sewing!

http://www.nancysnotions.com/NNVia/v...el&newWindow=Y

that link takes me to her home page. which book were you referring to? i'd love to know how to alter patterns properly. it seems like half the time i make something i never end up wearing it because it doesn't fit

[smudge]

I dont' think my link worked. The book is Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto.