This is a frustrating time for us (and has been for almost a year!)

: He gets tired, but will. not. nap. The days he's having serious congestion and I give him Benadryl in the day, he naps for 1.5-2 hours and then is up until 11 pm. I've learned that his body is just in a state of transition, where he has these baggy eyes and yawns, but refuses to nap anymore.
I enforce quiet time, which helps him to not get too out of control by dinner time, but the only other thing that helps is to stay on a really routine schedule in the evenings. Dinner is 5:30, bath at 6 - and bath is a hugely important wind-down time for him. I run it really, really warm, and he plays quietly in there with his toys and it really helps to bring him down after a long day. When he's ready to get about, usually between 6:30-7, I make sure the house lights are mostly off, so it's quiet and dim, and we brush teeth and go to play "bed", where we burn off the last of his energy by doing steamroller and other slightly energetic, but mostly quiet-ish games. We do hide-and-seek under the covers, etc. Then it's reading time. Reading makes that kid just relax all over his whole body. The best books for relaxing are the ones that don't require any interaction, like letters or finding things, or answering questions. We have two compilations of beautiful bedtime stories about mama and daddy loving and tucking the kiddos into bed, and they're so relaxing that I want to sleep.

I turn on the sound machine, we read by the light of the waning sun, no artificial lights, and then I tell him a story as long as he's lying still and quiet.
Doesn't always work, but if I do it consistently, then he's asleep by 8. He wakes up anywhere between 6-8, 8 if I'm totally lucky, but mostly between 6:30-7.
I'm reading Sleepless in America, hoping I can get some more pointers for how to help him get enough rest.