Thanks for the links and thoughts, everybody!
There's a cob institute a couple hours from where we'll be building in Oregon, and I know they will be a lot of help. Their approach to codes, though, is that you're better off building off the radar, as there are no statutes in the state for earth building. Thing is, where we'll be building is right in clear view of a highway, and people have gotten hassled by passing inspectors for much less than we want to do. I'm glad to hear of some people's experiences with what works best with codes (the non-load bearing wall thing, for example). It's good to hear from people who are actually doing it! (I'm checking out your blog with interest, kimmom!)