my current pattern was developed from a kwik sew pattern, which I bought out of convenience. It took several major drafting changes to get it to fit, I was better off starting from scratch, but what can I say? I'm stubborn
The basic cup shape is VERY pointy, not a natural shape at ALL, and I'm pretty sure the grading is wonky, too, which only exacerbates the wierd shape. Rocket boobs might look okay on a 32A, but not on a 34D.
I've heard really good things about the Elan patterns, I'd start there if I were to do it again. The bra maker supply lady just finished writing a book about all things bra making, that would have loads of information. I've been really thinking about buying her templates and starting to make custom bras myself. I'd need a new machine first, though, my singer just isn't up for the challenge. I figured out buying her blocks would actually be saving money compared to my doing all the drafting myself.
I've been making my bras out of a pretty sturdy cotton jersey, so I think it's an excellent choice of fabric
I made one out of a cotton/lycra blend and that was a disaster, way too stretchy.
I went to university for apparel design, that's when I started making bras. I continued because I'm a rarer size myself (30DD), and it sure beats spending a fortune on underwear.
I love talking about lingerie