[penny31]

Hi guys...<br>
I am new to CD'ing, but I do know a thing or two about "technical" fabrics, as I am an outerwear designer by trade (I work for a company called Woolrich, and design their coats, etc.).<br>
Anyway, I just wanted to give a little advice. If you are starting to feel like the cover of your AIO is starting to wick, and you are planning to respray it with a commercial water resistant finish, try this first. Throw it in the dryer for one cycle. I know we don't machine dry our AIOs because we want the PUL to last, but WR finishes thrive on heat. Basically, the way they work is that they create these microscopic barbs on the surface of the fabric, and these barbs hold water away from the fabric (which is why water will bead up on the surface of your AIO). After time and use, these barbs begin to flatten and your WR finish loses its effectiveness. The dryer (or an iron, but not sure what that would do to the PUL?) will make the barbs all stick up again! This won't work forever, eventually you will need to re-spray as WR finishes aren't permanent, but it will give you some extra protection for a while!<br>
Just a little advice, hope no one minds me being a know-it-all <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.mothering.com/discussions/images/smilies/whistling.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="whistle"><img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.mothering.com/discussions/images/smilies/biggrinbounce.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="bgbounce">....<br><br>
XOXO

 

[Kermit]

Neat! Thanks for that tip!<br><br>
Yeah, I wouldn't iron PUL materials. It would probably melt to your iron or ironing board (depending on which side you ironed). But that's a great suggestion for the stuff treated with the WR's!

 

[penny31]

Yeah, that might be messy <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.mothering.com/discussions/images/smilies/yikes.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="EEK!"><br><br>
Thanks!<br><br>
XOXO

 

[steelmagnolia4]

Actually, you CAN iron PUL. I've done it several times. Its rather pointless as the creases or what have you that you were trying to get out tend to stay no matter what, but it doesn't melt, even on the highest setting. I ironed the knit side, though, not the shiny side!

 

[Sandra Dee]

This is why I always dry my FBs - it keeps the PUL nice and water tight - I've never had a wicking diaper that I got fairly new, yk? (sometimes it's hard to undo damage that has already been done)<br><br>
Oh - and I had to heat set the paint when I painted DD's panda FB - and I used an iron with no ill effects. I slipped an old hand towel into the pocket (for fear that the PUL would get on the micro and ruin it) and there was nothing on the towel. Mind you, this was 4-5 minutes to heat set - so that's pretty intense heat! <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.mothering.com/discussions/images/smilies/thumb.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="thumbs up">

 

[Kermit]

Wow! It is quite heat resistant! If it doesn't melt, how would it melt those little holes and seal them? Or maybe it does melt but doesn't stick to anything but itself? And it seems it would also not hurt it to boil it then or dry it on high heat. But then there is the life of the fleece and elastic to consider.