bump-I have a sudden desperate need for an answer to this question, also!
Best Enzmatic Cleaners for Cat Pee??HELP!
Ok, we moved into our house-a parsonage-4 years ago. The last tenants had cats which peed. We've had problems with cat pee from the time we moved in. Our cats have also peed in many places. Part of it was because of UTIs, which we treated, and I think part of it has been that they pee in places where the litter boxes have been temporarily for various reasons, and when they are mad at us for one reason or another, they go there.
For instance, we had a flood in our basement two years ago, and we moved the litterboxes to the front foyer until the basement dried up. Now, every night one of them pees there. I should mention we have 4 females and 1 male, all fixed. I have narrowed it down to two cats, both femlaes. I think it might be the one who likes to drink out of the bathroom sink, and when we don't leave it on at night, gets mad. I'm still trying to solve this problem. I bought a running fountain, which she drinks out of, but she wants to still have access to the sink 24/7.
OK, so every year around spring the house starts to smell. Every year we try a different enzymatic cleaner- we've tried the Planet Urine one year (I vacuumed it up with the wet/dry vac as was directed, and white powder went all over the walls!), Nature's Miracle another, 1-2-3 (can't remember the exact title). I don't know. Nothing seems to be working, and we're having continued peeing. (And no, they've been checked, no urinary tract infection). My husband is getting to the point that he wants to put the two "offenders" in the garage at night. I can't "shut them off" from this area unless I use baby gates(the most likely offender can't jump the gates) and the only way to keep them away from the area is to shut them off from upstairs-which would tick her off to no end--may have more of a problem!
Of course that is only part of the problem. We have set in cat odor stains that we can't get rid of. We have a damp basement that when the ground starts to thaw, wafts the odor of cat urine (that's where the boxes are) up through the house via the stairs and heating vents. I'm getting REALLY frustrated. We need a solution. Please! What has worked for people?
I know of the Urine Off (I think that's what it is called? recommended by the Queen of Clean) -that's a powder. There's the new "Zero" spray, and the Odormute. What have people tried that works??
For instance, we had a flood in our basement two years ago, and we moved the litterboxes to the front foyer until the basement dried up. Now, every night one of them pees there. I should mention we have 4 females and 1 male, all fixed. I have narrowed it down to two cats, both femlaes. I think it might be the one who likes to drink out of the bathroom sink, and when we don't leave it on at night, gets mad. I'm still trying to solve this problem. I bought a running fountain, which she drinks out of, but she wants to still have access to the sink 24/7.
OK, so every year around spring the house starts to smell. Every year we try a different enzymatic cleaner- we've tried the Planet Urine one year (I vacuumed it up with the wet/dry vac as was directed, and white powder went all over the walls!), Nature's Miracle another, 1-2-3 (can't remember the exact title). I don't know. Nothing seems to be working, and we're having continued peeing. (And no, they've been checked, no urinary tract infection). My husband is getting to the point that he wants to put the two "offenders" in the garage at night. I can't "shut them off" from this area unless I use baby gates(the most likely offender can't jump the gates) and the only way to keep them away from the area is to shut them off from upstairs-which would tick her off to no end--may have more of a problem!
Of course that is only part of the problem. We have set in cat odor stains that we can't get rid of. We have a damp basement that when the ground starts to thaw, wafts the odor of cat urine (that's where the boxes are) up through the house via the stairs and heating vents. I'm getting REALLY frustrated. We need a solution. Please! What has worked for people?
I know of the Urine Off (I think that's what it is called? recommended by the Queen of Clean) -that's a powder. There's the new "Zero" spray, and the Odormute. What have people tried that works??
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Well, I can't recommend an enzyme cleaner.
However, a few things to consider:
Are you REALLY saturating the area? Not just a little surface squirt, but SATURATING the spot? It should take at least a few days to feel semi-dry, and sometimes, up to 2 weeks to fully dry.
Are you repeating every two weeks if the smell remains?
Also, regarding litter boxes:
Do you have a litter box for each cat, plus one extra?
Some cats are VERY picky about sharing boxes, or are sticklers for litter box cleanliness, and WILL NOT use the box if another cat has used it, or the box is dirty. Scoop your boxes for poop once a day, and change for urine as necessary.
Are your litter boxes all in one area? If so, that may be part of your problem. Cats that are old, have physical ailments (arthritis, UTIs etc.) or are just plain lazy will find someplace more easily accessible to go. Try spreading out your litter boxes, making sure there is at LEAST one for each house level that the cats have access to.
If the cats keep going in the same spot- treat with enzyme cleaner. Put a CLEAN litter box over the spot. If the cat uses it, leave it in that spot for a few days. After a few days, move the box over a few inches. Leave for a few days. Repeat until the box has migrated from where the cats have been urinating on the floor, to a spot that is in a place where you don't mind it being. Make sure to clean the box daily, in case the offending cat is picky. This is also part of the method used to toilet train cats.
If you have all one type of litter box: all hooded boxes, or all open boxes- try adding one or two of the opposite kind. Some cats will not go in the box if there is no privacy, some cats don't like the hood.
Also, be aware that litter boxes should be easily accessible, but also in an area where the cat will not get startled, or harrassed while using the litter box. If you have fighting issues amongst your cats, and the cat you think is the offending cat is the one being picked on the most, you might consider putting a litter box in the area the picked on cat most uses as a retreat.
The litter boxes should NOT be placed by food. Most animals will NOT eliminate by their food source, unless forced to, so if the cat food is right by the litter box, the offending cat may be going AWAY from the food source for that reason.
Finally, if all else fails, consider that the behavior may be the cause of mental distress or ailment, and see about getting some medication (kitty prozac).
Good luck.
However, a few things to consider:
Are you REALLY saturating the area? Not just a little surface squirt, but SATURATING the spot? It should take at least a few days to feel semi-dry, and sometimes, up to 2 weeks to fully dry.
Are you repeating every two weeks if the smell remains?
Also, regarding litter boxes:
Do you have a litter box for each cat, plus one extra?
Some cats are VERY picky about sharing boxes, or are sticklers for litter box cleanliness, and WILL NOT use the box if another cat has used it, or the box is dirty. Scoop your boxes for poop once a day, and change for urine as necessary.
Are your litter boxes all in one area? If so, that may be part of your problem. Cats that are old, have physical ailments (arthritis, UTIs etc.) or are just plain lazy will find someplace more easily accessible to go. Try spreading out your litter boxes, making sure there is at LEAST one for each house level that the cats have access to.
If the cats keep going in the same spot- treat with enzyme cleaner. Put a CLEAN litter box over the spot. If the cat uses it, leave it in that spot for a few days. After a few days, move the box over a few inches. Leave for a few days. Repeat until the box has migrated from where the cats have been urinating on the floor, to a spot that is in a place where you don't mind it being. Make sure to clean the box daily, in case the offending cat is picky. This is also part of the method used to toilet train cats.
If you have all one type of litter box: all hooded boxes, or all open boxes- try adding one or two of the opposite kind. Some cats will not go in the box if there is no privacy, some cats don't like the hood.
Also, be aware that litter boxes should be easily accessible, but also in an area where the cat will not get startled, or harrassed while using the litter box. If you have fighting issues amongst your cats, and the cat you think is the offending cat is the one being picked on the most, you might consider putting a litter box in the area the picked on cat most uses as a retreat.
The litter boxes should NOT be placed by food. Most animals will NOT eliminate by their food source, unless forced to, so if the cat food is right by the litter box, the offending cat may be going AWAY from the food source for that reason.
Finally, if all else fails, consider that the behavior may be the cause of mental distress or ailment, and see about getting some medication (kitty prozac).
Good luck.
Quote:
FYI: At Petsmart today I found some Odorzout on sale. It's the powder kind, but I'm going to try it. Like I said, I also sprayed some phenome spray to see if it will help.
We are doing a major spring cleaning on the basement. I'm hoping the trustees of the church will finally seal the wall. If anyone has ideas for cleaning the concrete floor- I'm all ears. I'm thinking of using Bac-Out, maybe?
Originally Posted by Breathless Wonder Are you REALLY saturating the area? Not just a little surface squirt, but SATURATING the spot? It should take at least a few days to feel semi-dry, and sometimes, up to 2 weeks to fully dry. Yes- we are saturating Are you repeating every two weeks if the smell remains? No, we did not do that. Also, regarding litter boxes: Do you have a litter box for each cat, plus one extra? Yes Some cats are VERY picky about sharing boxes, or are sticklers for litter box cleanliness, and WILL NOT use the box if another cat has used it, or the box is dirty. Scoop your boxes for poop once a day, and change for urine as necessary. Are your litter boxes all in one area? If so, that may be part of your problem. Cats that are old, have physical ailments (arthritis, UTIs etc.) or are just plain lazy will find someplace more easily accessible to go. Try spreading out your litter boxes, making sure there is at LEAST one for each house level that the cats have access to. I'm not too keen on this- but I'll try it if it will help. The cat litter, even with newspapers and cat litter catchers down, tends to get in the carpet. Plus, there are aren't any satisfactory areas for a cat's litter box-where people aren't hanging out a lot- KWIM? If the cats keep going in the same spot- treat with enzyme cleaner. Put a CLEAN litter box over the spot. If the cat uses it, leave it in that spot for a few days. After a few days, move the box over a few inches. Leave for a few days. Repeat until the box has migrated from where the cats have been urinating on the floor, to a spot that is in a place where you don't mind it being. Make sure to clean the box daily, in case the offending cat is picky. This is also part of the method used to toilet train cats. We will try this- though I bought some phenome (sp?) spray and sprayed it on the most common area where pee has been a problem. If you have all one type of litter box: all hooded boxes, or all open boxes- try adding one or two of the opposite kind. Some cats will not go in the box if there is no privacy, some cats don't like the hood. We had some hooded, some open. Nobody would go in the hooded ones. The litter boxes should NOT be placed by food. Most animals will NOT eliminate by their food source, unless forced to, so if the cat food is right by the litter box, the offending cat may be going AWAY from the food source for that reason. True. Actually, we've put extra food dishes in the offending areas to keep them from peeing there. One just peed around it and then didn't eat the food. Finally, if all else fails, consider that the behavior may be the cause of mental distress or ailment, and see about getting some medication (kitty prozac). This may need to be done. Thanks for your advice! . |
We are doing a major spring cleaning on the basement. I'm hoping the trustees of the church will finally seal the wall. If anyone has ideas for cleaning the concrete floor- I'm all ears. I'm thinking of using Bac-Out, maybe?
I swear by Odornix. It has taken the smell of pee AND vomit out of my carpet. And, it's non-toxic. I buy it at walmart but I think you can get it online, too.
Well, I found out some interesting things yesterday. First of all, we've had ongoing water problems in the basement, which doesn't help the smell problem. I talked to a trustee, and I guess this has been happening for years, and sealing the walls hasn't helped, so they are going to talk about shoring up the house. Also, talking to a parishoner about our problem, her son said they had come to the house when the last pastor was here and that it always smelled like cat pee. So I talked to the trustees again, and they had replaced some of the carpet after the last pastor left, but they did not sand and seal the subflooring. Aha!
Here's the interesting thing: short of the one spot that our cat has been using, I cannot find any more cat pee. I used a black light and my (very strong) nose. Nothing. So the smell is definitely coming from the basement, and may be coming up from the floorboards. I'm going to clean the basement floor this morning with Bac-Out, and see if it helps.
We've also discussed finding another home for Hedwig, the one who is doing the peeing. I believe strongly that once you take an animal in, they're your responsibility, and I love her dearly, but I don't think she's happy at all. She strongly dislikes our ds, though she's never hurt him. Her peeing problems and UTIs started to occur when I was pregnant. I have a friend who absolutely loves her, and she would be in a good home where she was doted on. My friend does have other cats, so that may be an issue. But I know with my friend that if it doesn't work out, she'll return her to us and not have her destroyed or sent to a shelter.
We'll also look into kitty Prozac. Once our son is out of the toddler phase, I think she'll be better. I should say, we don't let our ds hurt her (not that he probably could, she's 20 very muscular pounds), or bother her. But he's really attached to her (don't ask me why!). "Heddi" was his first word, after mama and dada. And his toddler ways really bother her- you know, tantrums, running, being loud. She leaves for another part of the house when he's doing that kind of stuff, but you can tell she's upset.
Thanks for everybody's ideas.
Here's the interesting thing: short of the one spot that our cat has been using, I cannot find any more cat pee. I used a black light and my (very strong) nose. Nothing. So the smell is definitely coming from the basement, and may be coming up from the floorboards. I'm going to clean the basement floor this morning with Bac-Out, and see if it helps.
We've also discussed finding another home for Hedwig, the one who is doing the peeing. I believe strongly that once you take an animal in, they're your responsibility, and I love her dearly, but I don't think she's happy at all. She strongly dislikes our ds, though she's never hurt him. Her peeing problems and UTIs started to occur when I was pregnant. I have a friend who absolutely loves her, and she would be in a good home where she was doted on. My friend does have other cats, so that may be an issue. But I know with my friend that if it doesn't work out, she'll return her to us and not have her destroyed or sent to a shelter.
We'll also look into kitty Prozac. Once our son is out of the toddler phase, I think she'll be better. I should say, we don't let our ds hurt her (not that he probably could, she's 20 very muscular pounds), or bother her. But he's really attached to her (don't ask me why!). "Heddi" was his first word, after mama and dada. And his toddler ways really bother her- you know, tantrums, running, being loud. She leaves for another part of the house when he's doing that kind of stuff, but you can tell she's upset.
Thanks for everybody's ideas.
will washing in a washing machine take the pee smell out? My scarf fell on the floor near the litter box and it STINKS!!
are these cleaners safe for hardwood floors? I've been using baking soda and vinegar where my cat misses the box.....
are these cleaners safe for hardwood floors? I've been using baking soda and vinegar where my cat misses the box.....
We're having a smilar issue, so I feel your pain. We have four cats (2 female, 2 male, all neutered) and NEVER had potty issues before we moved. The woman we bought our house from had four dogs and 6-8 cats (she fostered) and even though the house was only 2 years old, the cats had gone everywhere. We has to rip up every bit of carpet and replace or treat/seal the subfloors before we laid new flooring (pergo, tile or hardwood -- I don't do carpet). Even with all of this, we are still having major issues with one of our males.
The enzymatic cleaner that I have had the most success with is Simple Solution, which I buy at Petsmart but have seen elsewhere. It's more expensive than Nature's Miracle, but I think it works better. Like the PP stated, you have to really soak the area.
I have been wanting to try kitty Prozac (actually Buspirone is supposed to be the "Inappropriate Elimination" cat med of choice), but for some reason my vet is really opposed to it. It has nothing to do with him not wanting to med a cat, though, because he had us try Valium twice for the same problem (it worked only briefly). I think that he's resistant to other meds because I suggested it -- that he's just an older man who doesn't like a woman telling him how to do his job.
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The enzymatic cleaner that I have had the most success with is Simple Solution, which I buy at Petsmart but have seen elsewhere. It's more expensive than Nature's Miracle, but I think it works better. Like the PP stated, you have to really soak the area.
I have been wanting to try kitty Prozac (actually Buspirone is supposed to be the "Inappropriate Elimination" cat med of choice), but for some reason my vet is really opposed to it. It has nothing to do with him not wanting to med a cat, though, because he had us try Valium twice for the same problem (it worked only briefly). I think that he's resistant to other meds because I suggested it -- that he's just an older man who doesn't like a woman telling him how to do his job.
subbing. I also have a cat who pees. I will read these posts later!
I moved my cat's litterbox once and she would have accidents after that. I discovered that cats are very sensitive to any kind of change. I had a couple boxes put in place: one close to the last spot and the other beside it, but further to where I wanted it to go. Over the course of several months, I would inch each box along after a few days. This worked very well and stopped the accidents. I also use a non-scented, clumping litter. She couldn't stand the scented stuff.
I also feed her a natural, raw food diet. She's diabetic, and this diet has improved her health a thousand-fold. Commercial pet food is very unhealthy.
I found that changes in litterbox location, food location and diet can have a tremendous impact on how a cat behaves.
I also feed her a natural, raw food diet. She's diabetic, and this diet has improved her health a thousand-fold. Commercial pet food is very unhealthy.
I found that changes in litterbox location, food location and diet can have a tremendous impact on how a cat behaves.
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