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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is not fun for me.<br><br>
First off, he isn't neutered so that could be the source of my problem. He is constantly pulling me everywhere. He takes me on the walks and it's getting really annoying. I have tried to train him but he is a pointer and sniffs everything! Any tips on training him to be a better dog on a leash? Other than that he is a very obedient and smart doggie. He's 2 1/2 by the way.
 

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<span style="font-family:'Comic Sans MS';"><span style="color:#008000;">You aren't going to neuter him? Have you tried obedience classes? Could you exercise him in an enclosed ball field?</span></span>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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<div>Originally Posted by <strong>canadianchick</strong> <a href="/community/forum/post/10775578"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="/community/img/forum/go_quote.gif" style="border:0px solid;"></a></div>
<div style="font-style:italic;"><span style="font-family:'Comic Sans MS';"><span style="color:#008000;">You aren't going to neuter him? Have you tried obedience classes? Could you exercise him in an enclosed ball field?</span></span></div>
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No, he will not be neutered. I do take him to a huge field to run but I would still like to take him on walks as I walk every evening and he loves to go...
 

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English Pointer? GSP? Not that it really matters, of course, but just out of curiosity...<br><br>
Look at it this way--you've got a breed hard-wired to go ahead of the human at a good steady run, head down and sniffing. What he's doing is what every nerve is screaming at him to do. So what you need to do is teach him that when the walking command is given, it's NOT hunting time; it's heel time. You need to find the right collar to help him feel your signals (I would recommend a prong) and you need to get his head up off the ground. Teaching a "head up" or "watch me" with treats, and enforcing ten seconds of eye contact before you even start moving (and then stopping and asking for eye contact again every time he puts his head down and pulls) would be a good idea.<br><br>
I would bet he'd really benefit from a training course, especially from a hunter who understands pointers. You don't want someone who will interpret normal pointer behavior as rebellion, but good pointer trainers certainly do have a walk or a heel command (how else would they get to the field safely?).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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<div>Originally Posted by <strong>thekimballs</strong> <a href="/community/forum/post/10775995"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="/community/img/forum/go_quote.gif" style="border:0px solid;"></a></div>
<div style="font-style:italic;">English Pointer? GSP? Not that it really matters, of course, but just out of curiosity...<br><br>
Look at it this way--you've got a breed hard-wired to go ahead of the human at a good steady run, head down and sniffing. What he's doing is what every nerve is screaming at him to do. So what you need to do is teach him that when the walking command is given, it's NOT hunting time; it's heel time. You need to find the right collar to help him feel your signals (I would recommend a prong) and you need to get his head up off the ground. Teaching a "head up" or "watch me" with treats, and enforcing ten seconds of eye contact before you even start moving (and then stopping and asking for eye contact again every time he puts his head down and pulls) would be a good idea.<br><br>
I would bet he'd really benefit from a training course, especially from a hunter who understands pointers. You don't want someone who will interpret normal pointer behavior as rebellion, but good pointer trainers certainly do have a walk or a heel command (how else would they get to the field safely?).</div>
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thanks. great tips <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.mothering.com/discussions/images/smilies/thumb.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="thumbs up"><br><br>
he's an english pointer, btw.
 

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My lab responds well to this: <a href="http://www.gentleleader.com/" target="_blank">http://www.gentleleader.com/</a><br>
An alternative brand is the Halti.<br><br>
I can now walk him with my baby Dd in a Mei Tai. He tries to paw it off when I first put it on him but acquiesces once we're out and walking!
 

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I don't want to jump on you, but I really don't like the GL/Halti. Head halters on dogs are quite dangerous, biomechanically, and while they do work they tend to work ONLY when they're on (in other words, put a collar on and the dog is a nightmare once more). I prefer to use the correct collar and teach the dog not to pull, so that even in a flat collar he will remember his lessons.
 

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We have a sporting breed as well (Gordon Setter), and the prong collar worked instantly to stop his pulling. Give it lots of time! We've been using it for several months and he still needs it.
 

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My dog is a puller too. It's driving me crazy! How do I know if a prong collar is a good idea for him and how do I learn to use it safely?
 

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Prongs are for dogs that seem to not "hear" the collar. You're hauling as hard as you can and they're hauling right back--not being disobedient, just happy (typically wagging and choking themselves at the same time). With a prong, the dog can finally feel the signal you're sending, so it works like power steering for dogs.<br><br>
You should buy one that is slightly too big, and remove links to shorten it. You want it to fit around the neck, tight enough that it's approximately in the middle (nowhere near the base of the neck/shoulder) at rest. Since prongs have half prongs and half limited-choke chain, that means that the chain will be flat against the neck. MANY people make the mistake of fitting the collar so it's tight on the neck only when the limited-choke is pulled all the way back--this is incorrect.<br><br>
You should clip the leash to BOTH rings in the limited-choke section; only use the "live" ring (the one that if you pull it the collar gets smaller) if the dog absolutely will not work when both rings are clipped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
<div style="margin:20px;margin-top:5px;">
<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px;">Quote:</div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="99%"><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset;">
<div>Originally Posted by <strong>thekimballs</strong> <a href="/community/forum/post/10776927"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="/community/img/forum/go_quote.gif" style="border:0px solid;"></a></div>
<div style="font-style:italic;">Prongs are for dogs that seem to not "hear" the collar. You're hauling as hard as you can and they're hauling right back--not being disobedient, just happy (typically wagging and choking themselves at the same time). With a prong, the dog can finally feel the signal you're sending, so it works like power steering for dogs.<br><br>
You should buy one that is slightly too big, and remove links to shorten it. You want it to fit around the neck, tight enough that it's approximately in the middle (nowhere near the base of the neck/shoulder) at rest. Since prongs have half prongs and half limited-choke chain, that means that the chain will be flat against the neck. MANY people make the mistake of fitting the collar so it's tight on the neck only when the limited-choke is pulled all the way back--this is incorrect.<br><br>
You should clip the leash to BOTH rings in the limited-choke section; only use the "live" ring (the one that if you pull it the collar gets smaller) if the dog absolutely will not work when both rings are clipped.</div>
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Can I get this at petsmart or petco or is it something i have to order online?
 
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